Q-Jet Choke Conversion. Is this correct?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 403
From: Nashville TN
St. Jude Donor '09
Q-Jet Choke Conversion. Is this correct?
The Q-Jet on my '76 was installed by a PO with a manual choke. I want to convert to electric choke since I disconnected the manual and want to upgrade. It sounds like from what I read that I need the Edelbrock conversion kit #1478 Is this correct? My carb is stamped 17054919 2774 and it looks like this:
Thanks for the help!!!
Thanks for the help!!!
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,040
Likes: 672
From: FL
That Edelbrock kit will not work since it is designed for the Edelbrock Performer carb, which is basically a Carter AFB, not the Q-Jet.
I used converted my hot-air choke (stock '75) to electric many years ago but that consisted of just replacing the choke coil with an electric piece using the stock housing. You have none of that.
The carb # 17054919 means that the carb originally came off a 1973 Chevy/GMC truck which means it had the divorced choke (coil on manifold).
Part CU445 on this page http://www.carburetion.com/quadrajet.asp would be appropriate for this carb but I can't tell if your manifold has the divorced choke pad to mount the coil.
You could also contact Cliff Ruggles for some advice on this:
http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/
One thing I would check since this was originally a truck carb is the jets and rods.
I used converted my hot-air choke (stock '75) to electric many years ago but that consisted of just replacing the choke coil with an electric piece using the stock housing. You have none of that.
The carb # 17054919 means that the carb originally came off a 1973 Chevy/GMC truck which means it had the divorced choke (coil on manifold).
Part CU445 on this page http://www.carburetion.com/quadrajet.asp would be appropriate for this carb but I can't tell if your manifold has the divorced choke pad to mount the coil.
You could also contact Cliff Ruggles for some advice on this:
http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/
One thing I would check since this was originally a truck carb is the jets and rods.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 403
From: Nashville TN
St. Jude Donor '09
It looks like my manifold does have the divorce choke pad to mount, see pic below. I'm planning to rebuild the carb and replace jets and metering rods. It runs okay now (not great, but driveable), but I'm pretty sure I'm on the lean side. I've got to get the accelerator pump working properly too. I've been reading Cliff's book and am planning to contact him when I get closer to rebuilding.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 10
From: Austin TX
I would find the divorced choke kit and run it. Here are the needed parts:
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&
For the rod, I usually fab a rod that is 3/8" longer so the choke will open earlier. Some simple 1/8" round steel wire works great.
Also, in the two upper photos of the q-jet, do you see the thin-wire spring behind the pull-off? Get some needle-nose pliers and remove it by pulling on one of the ends of the spring. That spring keeps the choke closed for too long.
If the choke is engaged, the secondaries won't open. I like my chokes to be functioning for start-up and a couple of minutes after. This also activates the high idle function which is good. After a few minutes of driving I want the choke valve to be completely open. Obviously if it's winter and you live in North Dakota, you'll want to adjust the choke to work for a much longer period of time.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&
For the rod, I usually fab a rod that is 3/8" longer so the choke will open earlier. Some simple 1/8" round steel wire works great.
Also, in the two upper photos of the q-jet, do you see the thin-wire spring behind the pull-off? Get some needle-nose pliers and remove it by pulling on one of the ends of the spring. That spring keeps the choke closed for too long.
If the choke is engaged, the secondaries won't open. I like my chokes to be functioning for start-up and a couple of minutes after. This also activates the high idle function which is good. After a few minutes of driving I want the choke valve to be completely open. Obviously if it's winter and you live in North Dakota, you'll want to adjust the choke to work for a much longer period of time.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 28
From: Long Beach CA
Not sure, but I believe the crossover being blocked would affect how fast the choke would heat up and come off. It'd still work, just take a bit longer.
FYI -- I have a recently rebuilt Q-jet with an electric choke lying around the garage that I'd be willing to part with.
FYI -- I have a recently rebuilt Q-jet with an electric choke lying around the garage that I'd be willing to part with.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,040
Likes: 672
From: FL
Definitely affect warmup time. The first link that I posted above has an electric choke that bolts to the manifold in place of the divorced choke and operates through the stock style linkage. That is what you need.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 992
Likes: 56
From: Baldwinsville, NY
http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/parts.html#a
http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/parts.html#a
Contact Cliff the Q-Jet guy. I am not sure about if the above will work on your vintage Q-Jet, but a kit from Cliff worked on my 78.
The electric choke works great...
http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/parts.html#a
Contact Cliff the Q-Jet guy. I am not sure about if the above will work on your vintage Q-Jet, but a kit from Cliff worked on my 78.
The electric choke works great...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 10
From: Austin TX
BTW, good move to block the crossover.
Good luck!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 10
From: Austin TX
Also, on the photos of the q-jet, I see that you have the best port for the vacuum advance blocked; the port (tube) that's just behind the pull-off diaphragm. It's a great source for manifold vacuum which is best for your vacuum advance. Are you running ported vacuum to your VA?
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
You've got a service replacement carb.
The elec conversion choke kit from carburetion.com should work as it mounts to the manifold.
Otherwise you need a 75 or later carb with hot air choke to convert with just the elec coil.
Here are some pics on page3 that show the differences in the choke mounting..
http://vetteprojects.com/kstyer/quadrajet.htm
The elec conversion choke kit from carburetion.com should work as it mounts to the manifold.
Otherwise you need a 75 or later carb with hot air choke to convert with just the elec coil.
Here are some pics on page3 that show the differences in the choke mounting..
http://vetteprojects.com/kstyer/quadrajet.htm
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 403
From: Nashville TN
St. Jude Donor '09
Thanks for all the great responses. I want to explore all my options!!!
I read some more in Cliff's book tonight on chokes and he suggest not even running a choke. I'd be okay here in TN, but my car is a bear to start and impossible without choke. I know carb needs to be rebuilt and definitely need new accel pump. I'm wrapping up my winter projects and trying to get car on road before the great weather gets away, so some projects will have to stay on list. Looks like the elec choke is the way to go for me. Bubba unbolted steering column from firewall (both sides of the seal) and ran manual choke cable through the bolt hole. You know how much heat comes through those holes???? Fixed now and manual choke is not going back!!!!!
That's good to know. I thought that was ported so I moved my VA to the fitting on the back of the manifold to be sure. Also thanks for the tip on making your own linkage -- I'll have to look at that closer.
Thanks, I haven't seen that doc and will go over in depth tomorrow. Looks like good info.
Also, on the photos of the q-jet, I see that you have the best port for the vacuum advance blocked; the port (tube) that's just behind the pull-off diaphragm. It's a great source for manifold vacuum which is best for your vacuum advance. Are you running ported vacuum to your VA?
You've got a service replacement carb.
The elec conversion choke kit from carburetion.com should work as it mounts to the manifold.
Otherwise you need a 75 or later carb with hot air choke to convert with just the elec coil.
Here are some pics on page3 that show the differences in the choke mounting..
http://vetteprojects.com/kstyer/quadrajet.htm
The elec conversion choke kit from carburetion.com should work as it mounts to the manifold.
Otherwise you need a 75 or later carb with hot air choke to convert with just the elec coil.
Here are some pics on page3 that show the differences in the choke mounting..
http://vetteprojects.com/kstyer/quadrajet.htm
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 403
From: Nashville TN
St. Jude Donor '09
Received the CU445 kit yesterday and got all mounted. Have not tested and set yet. I can't warm the car up to test in the garage since I'll fumigate the house and wife will come looking for me 
I have to get my new tires mounted and on the car. Will setup next week and let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the help.
I have to get my new tires mounted and on the car. Will setup next week and let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the help.
