That's what I did! 
Distributor installation in correct angle
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 308
Likes: 18
From: Sweden
Distributor installation in correct angle
I'm installing my distributor and new wires.
I have the engine at 10 BTDC, but i can not line up the dist in a perfect angle (i.e tower 2, 1, 3 and 6 in a square parallell to the car).
I guess I'm 1/2 tooth off on the distributor, so I could just turn the gear on the shaft 180 degrees. Is it worth doing this now, or should I wait until I have set the timing and go from there? (I just assumed that 10BTDC would be close)
Or maybe I should just forget about this, who cares if the dist is 1/2 tooth off...?
I have the engine at 10 BTDC, but i can not line up the dist in a perfect angle (i.e tower 2, 1, 3 and 6 in a square parallell to the car).
I guess I'm 1/2 tooth off on the distributor, so I could just turn the gear on the shaft 180 degrees. Is it worth doing this now, or should I wait until I have set the timing and go from there? (I just assumed that 10BTDC would be close)
Or maybe I should just forget about this, who cares if the dist is 1/2 tooth off...?
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Don't worry about getting it perfectly square- what's more important is being able to get the timing just right without the advance can hitting anything, or without the tach cable being bent at a severe angle.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 912
Likes: 47
From: Kansas City MO
I agree with SanDiego Paul: Did the same thing to a buddies 70 Chevelle tonight...pointed distributor towards #1 cyl, lightly clamped down distributor, and then bumped the starter. Distrubutor dropped right in, clamped down distributor, hooked up plug wires and the car fired up on first try! Gonna set timing tomorrow as we didn't want to annoy the neighbors so late at night!!
Racer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
From: Glendale AZ
You can actually be pretty far off on the timing and the car will still run long enough to get a timing light on it.
Don't sweat the details, after all, you set the timing with a light anyway. Just have to get it in the right ballpark.
Don't sweat the details, after all, you set the timing with a light anyway. Just have to get it in the right ballpark.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 308
Likes: 18
From: Sweden
Ok thanks.
I can't start the engine yet since it is on the frame with no body on.
I've done the screwdriver to oil pump trick, but the problem is the gears on the dist is either a little too much clockwise or a litlle too much counter clockwise for a perfect "square" lineup.
The dimple in the dist gear is facing the rotor, so that is correct but I could turn the gear 180 degrees anyway.
Oh well, I guess I should focus on more imortant things like getting the body back on.
I can't start the engine yet since it is on the frame with no body on.
I've done the screwdriver to oil pump trick, but the problem is the gears on the dist is either a little too much clockwise or a litlle too much counter clockwise for a perfect "square" lineup.
The dimple in the dist gear is facing the rotor, so that is correct but I could turn the gear 180 degrees anyway.
Oh well, I guess I should focus on more imortant things like getting the body back on.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,431
Likes: 1,561
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
I tried to get a picture of that mod but my camera is finicky. But if people look closely they can see the vacuum canister in the correct position according to the GM instructions and the tach cable coming straight on at the other side, no aftermarket 90* adapter is needed. The #1 cable is just to the right of the dwell/points window instead of before just left as some assume is stock (pic). That alters the geometry of the distributor significantly.
As an aside, I spent several hours in recent weeks to converting to Accel 8-mm cables. My GM-style under exhaust manifold set-up was a mess; not because of GM engineering but because of my lack of GM looms and shields. This worried me in the past with those wires flopping about down there. So I have modded!
The wires were cut, stripped, and terminals added according to need. I do have the tools. I chose 90* boots at the distributor as seen above and straight-on at the plugs with R&M over-the-top looms. See pics. Works well. I have for the moment deleted the distributor shield and its brackets but they can go back on in 10 minutes.
I'm happy so far.
Last edited by Paul L; May 1, 2011 at 08:46 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,431
Likes: 1,561
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Paul 74 you did a nice clean job with the wires.
How come the block is black not orange?
Johan74 Here's some information from Lars.
He doesn't want his papers published on the net so email him for the "How to install your Distributor" paper v8fastcars@msn.com
You can't be off a half a tooth!
How come the block is black not orange?
Johan74 Here's some information from Lars.
He doesn't want his papers published on the net so email him for the "How to install your Distributor" paper v8fastcars@msn.com
You can't be off a half a tooth!
