1970 LT-1
1970 LT-1 in Donnybrooke green, coupe with matching numbers; missing the original IG ignition (in favor of points) and the original air cleaner; original bow tie valve covers are present but not on the car (one was cracked due to overtightening). The original owners manual is in the car; the interior is green; the passenger seat is split at the seams and some of the handles and ***** are missing; body is excellent; paint is fair with one warn spot on the cowling over the wipers, and some cracking in 2 places; power windows as the only option; no AC, power steering, power brakes; has side pipes and rear pop out glass.
[Modified by wireless guy, 7:02 PM 4/19/2002]
$12k, then paint, rebuilt engine, rebuilt trans, rebuilt rear, rebuilt brakes, new tires, new interior, etc. You will be upside down in value on this one real quick...
-Joe
[Modified by Flareside, 11:40 AM 4/19/2002]
Mark
Robert
'70 350/350 4-speed coupe
'98 6-speed coupe
You say the air cleaner is not original. What about the carb? (If it is the right # and date I would bet it's the original). The sidepipes were not a factory option, so not original. 70 LT-1 is a rare and desireable option, but a green coupe is less desireable than say, a red convertible. :) The 70 model year has some rare and expensive parts. Since the car is presented as "mostly original" I would check for some of those parts, like the front grill, maybe the alternator. (Arent original 70 exhaust tips rare?? Probably missing with the sidepipes!)
I see both sides of the arguement: It's hard to say the car is worth less than $12k, but it also will be easy to put more into it than it will be worth. MJ
CTK engine suffix.
Holley carb. R455A.
6500 red line on tach.
Single fuel line, split to each carb bowl.
2 1/2" exhaust. Not 2"!!!!
Large radiator, 27" and no expansion tank.
No AC!!!!
If there is no documetation, tank sticker, protecto plate, etc. the value will be something less but these cars range from 10K to 42K.
Good luck, and if you decide to not buy it let us know. I will come look!
Dean
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Heck, I'd love an LT-1 for $12k just like the next guy!
Heck, I'd love an LT-1 for $12k just like the next guy!
I've also seen cars that needed just about everything. Why ?
IF the garage during the 20+ yrs. didn't fluctuate a lot in humidity or temperature then the car should be pretty decent. My worries would be the "oil" - rubber bushings & parts - "hoses" - old gas in the tank, etc. :yesnod:
The fluids need to be 'tested' in order to acertain if any problems have occured... such as the carb. is probably 'inoperable' and will need a rebuild if the gas wasn't drained out. Also, the battery might have 'leaked'.
All rubber parts need to be checked for cracks & dry rot :chevy
All hoses, belts, fluids, bushings, will be replaced, as well as thermostat, radiator rodded or replaced, carb rebuilt, tank drop and cleaned, brake system rebuilt including caplipers and hoses.
Just to throw my 2 cents on the fire.... If it hasn't been run in 23 years, there's more than $20k worth of work that needs to be done to make it perfect.
I personally would love to have any 1970 LT-1 regarless of exterior interior color. Thoses cars are Bad butt. $12 grand fro a number matching LT-1???????????? GO FOR IT.
John
I'm curious why the distributor change. The TI has always been the hot ticket. MSD makes the closest thing to it today.
Drain the gas (tank, lines, & carb) and oil. Flush everything out if you can. If the car hasn't even been rolled around a bit over the years, the wheel bearings may have been damaged and need to be replaced.
The rings may have rusted to the bores during all the years. Remove all the plugs and squirt a couple cans of penetrating oil into all the cylinders. Also, when you refill the crank case with oil, pour oil down all the push rods, lifter valley and rockers to lube them up a bit too. Spin the oil pump with a drill attachment if you can. Don't turn over the motor yet! Squirt a lot of good motor oil into all the chambers and let soak for an hour or so. Now, slowly turn the engine over with a wrench on the crank pulley. You may have to rock it back and forth a little if there is a little ridge left from the rust. Once the engine pulls through smoothly several times you can probably put new plugs in, prime the carb and start the motor. It will smoke horribly with the oil in combustion chambers, but it should clear out in 5-10 minutes.
Don't rev the motor much. Some of the valve springs are probably weakened by being in a compressed position all those years, a job for the following weekend! If you can jack up the rear and let the drive train with new oil and grease run a bit that would probably be good too.
Hope this helps, please keep us all posted on what you do! The 70 LT1 is probably about the best behaved, spirited Corvette made until the new ZO6. Zora clocked a faster lap on a press day with the LT1 (which was supposed to be released in 69) than with the ZL1. Truly a fabulous car. I ran mine as a factory spec 370 horse LT1 and loved it! Everyone will always love the '70 LT1 :yesnod:
Chuck
[Modified by Chuck Harmon, 6:53 PM 4/19/2002]
Approach it with caution. :cheers:





















