can both upper control arms be removed (slipped out) without excessive removal of parts such as ac compressors, radiators, HASSLE etc.? im changing the bushings and dont want to get driver side done and then be stuck on the pass side.

1979 sb 350 stock everything.

 

I got mine out by bending the inner fenderwell above the frame a bit and cussing alot... They are a pain.

 

I got mine out that way. I had to loosen the fan shroud, push it over to the drivers side, loosen the ac compressor and pull it up out of the way and it took some time but it came out. Real pain in the backside. I should have taken out the radiator to make it easier though. If you are changing the bushings, pull the radiator and clean up the radiator support while you are doing it. It is another 30 minutes to pull the radiator, and you will be surprised at what you find.

You also want to get your transmission cooling lines out of the way when you pull the trailing arm. Check the fuel pump while you are there. It is easy to replace and clean with the trailing arm out of the way.

 

A lot of it depends on which radiator you have. My '69 350/350 with A/C was a Texas ordered car and it came with a big block radiator. With that radiator and the larger, one piece fan shroud there was very little wiggle room. Since my radiator needed a recore anyway I ended up doing both the A-arm bushings and the radiator at the same time. I ended up unbolting the A-arms and swung them as far towards the rear of the car as I could. This gave me enough space to remove the fan shroud and radiator without having to unbolt the top of the radiator support and this way I avoided disturbing the functioning A/C. With the radiator and shroud out there was plenty of room to swing the A-arms back forward and lift them out of the car. I'll also second the idea that you should check out the lower portion of the radiator support frame. In my case I did find corrosion which suprised me since there is no rust on any other part of the frame anywhere. You may want to replace the radiator cushions and shroud sealing pieces of foam at the same time.

 

Just finished this job. I do not have the stock rad and shroud. But the upper control arms did bump up against the new shroud which caused me to have to back out the control arm studs since there was not room to slip the arm off the stud. I ended up pulling both control arms out of the fender cutout. I did not pull them out through the top.

 

Just put an impact wrench on the studs and spin them. This will knock down their knurlings, then you can pull them out, and the arm will lift straight out. The only reason those studs are press fit is for ease of assembly. For reinstallation just get a helper or use a long extension through the wheel well to hold the bolt head.

 

I don't know why you would want to do that. Those knurls are very handy to have and it is quite easy to back off those studs by tapping on them with a brass hammer. Or double-nut them and just smack them with a regular hammer. But preserve the splines.

 

You'd have to pull the radiator shroud out to be able to tap out the stud in question. And if you have the shroud out, then you already have the clearance to remove the control arm so why are you banging out the stud?

I reinstalled my upper control arms myself without any hassle. I just used a long socket wrench extension. YMMV

 

I had no problem with mine either. But I had already removed the shroud and installed dual Spal fans beforehand

 

It's one or the other. If the shroud is out, then the arm can come out no problem. With the shroud in place, you won't have enough clearance to get the arm out nor will you be able to tap out the stud. Hence ... spin the stud to squash its knurlings and pull it out.

 

yes that's the problem that im seeing. the shroud. i have clearance to remove everything cleanly now and the shroud is loose but it wont remove without taking out the radiator. which i'm not about to do, nor remove the AC. i think just the amount the shroud moves now is enough for me to get the arms to come out. these bushings really need to be done so i guess i'm going to have to go through with it.

 

this is my first time doing an install like this! i have done all the other things to the car but for this i was willing to pay upwards of $$$ to get it done by a shop but no one returned my calls! that made me worry a bit!
okay well i like to contribute to this forum what little i can. so if i can help someone out with what i did great.
tonight i went at the drivers side control arms bushings i wont go into big detail but will say it wasn't as bad as you may think. 2 hours everything was out. one thing... the shroud is in the way i loosened it up but as Lars paper states those studs wiggle right out with no problem. and the arm comes out the hole under the fender too!
then off to the cellar to remove the bushings. as others mentioned i used a drill and whatever else i could get to pry them out and left the shells in for the new poly bushings. that was really the hardest part of the whole procedure. with new bushings in, tomorrow ill bring the arms into work and have the rivets cut off for the new ball joints. then put that side back together. hopefully i don't put the spring in wrong!
i do have to say though that the bushings were shot! the lower ball joint was really loose and the lower control arm would just barely lower even with pressure on it this thing still would move easily!! oh and another thing. the "hang up of all of the was the big bolt in the lower control ar. the nut is 7/8 so i figured the blind head would be too.....NOPE 11/16!! so dont spend 20 minutes like i did wondering WTF! and then figure it out!

 

This is the easiest way IMHO...but the upper control arm mounts are studs to facilitate placement of shims and the alignment process. Your alignment shop will still be able to align her, but you should tell them what you did. On the other hand, replacement studs are available at a reasonable price

 

the one wiggled out pretty easy once i rocked the arm back and forth i didnt need to hammer anything or turn them. they tightened right back up no prob. im leaving the air intake and some other thngs out so they can get to the shims if they have to. QUESTION- should any alignment shop be able to do the job or is it something special?

 

IMO, it's the tech doing the alignment more than the machine.