Ordered an MSD 8572 to replace the old worn out stock distributor. Have the new ignition module and coil already installed.

Now the fun begins, getting it installed correctly and setting the timing. I have always struggled to get the distributor in correctly and the car to start! The old distributor is still in the car and I know # 1 needs to be brought to TDC on the compression stroke to install the distributor, this is where I've had problems in the past! Could it be as easy as noting the current position of the old distributor, pulling it out, and installing the new one in the same position? My only thought there is if it is 1 tooth off it can wreak havoc and then it is back to square one!

Any hints or tips that will make this painless would be greatly appreciated!

 

Yes!!!! Do this! I've pulled and reinstalled dozens of distributors this way and never have had a problem. If the distributor does go in one tooth off (or 15 teeth of for that matter), all you will need to do is turn it a bit one way or the other when you set the timing. The orientation of the distributor will be a little different than it was before, but so long as the timing is set correctly, that doesn't matter.

 

Yes, all you need to do, is take notice of where the rotor is pointing. Sometimes, it makes it easier to bump it till it points toward a certain spot.

If you don't adjust the pump, when you first drop the distributor in, you can pull it up till it just clears the teeth, and drop it back down. Each time you do this, it will rotate slightly clockwise.

I use a long screwdriver, and use it to turn the pumprod slightly counterclockwise, then I don't have to "bump" it very far.

If you get both the rotor, and the vacuum advance pointing to the same spots, it should start right up, with time timing the same.

 

What I ment by not having to bump it very far, was the lifting and dropping of the distributor to move it one tooth at a time. Not bumping the engine, like I ment in the first usage of the word.

Sorry about this second post, I'm on my phone, and the mobile version of the forum doesn't have a way to edit posts.

 

I do often do new motors that don't have an example dizzy.

1. With a driver side valve cover off. Rotate the motor by hand and watch the intake close. Keep an eye on the damper pointer. Continue to rotate the damper to a spot about 15 degrees before "Zero" TDC (Top Dead Center) or what ever your initial advance is going to be. Dampers with degree markings are great!

2. Trial fit your dizzy a few times with the cap off to figure out how far the rotor swings as the teeth engage.

3. Figure out where you want the # 1 plug wire to be. The GM manual states the correct position, But it is where you want and where the vacuum advance is right.

4. As mentioned above look at the bottom of the dizzy to figure out the slot and where the oil pump has to be positioned with the rotating in rotor. Use a long flat blade screw driver to position the oil pump rod.

5. Drop the rotor in and use the starter bumping or hand rotate the motor so that the dizzy drops down and flush to the manifold.


6 Verify timing again with the drivers side valve cover off by rotating the motor by hand and watch the intake close. Keep an eye on the damper pointer. Continue to rotate the damper to about a spot 15 degrees before or what ever your initial advance is going to be.


7. Look and see if your rotor is where you want the number one plug wire to be. Install the hold down fork lightly. Mark the outside of the dizzy base where the rotor center is pointing. So when you install the cap you know where #1 is and count your plug wires on accorrding to the firing order.

8. Just set the valve cover in place and bolt down. Hook up the timing light. Dial back timing lights are the only way to go. Set your dial to what ever the total mech timing is going to be. Plug off the vac. advance of course. So have your timing light dial at 38 degrees with common heads.

9. Get everything right before you turn on the ignition. Trace every plug wire from the cap to the correct plug.

10. Have your buddy fire the motor and hold the gas on to rev the motor to 3500 rpm to ensure that all mech advance is in. Your dial back timing light should be hitting right on "Zero" damper and pointer. The one time revving a cold motor to 3500 is less damage to a motor than dicking around with it popping and miss firing.

11. I never end up more than plus or minus 10 degrees from the get go. Rotate the dizzy cap to get you total advance rate correct and tighten the dizzy down.

12. Initial advance is a moot point. It can only be changed by recourving the dizzy advance mechanism. So it falls where it falls. Presently my vette has a dizzy with 15 degrees of mech advance. I want only 32 total without vacuum. So my initial ends up as 17 degrees. My spare motor needs 32 also. It has a total of 12 degrees of mech advance. So it has an initial of 20. Motors with some performance mods actually idle much smoother with higher initial advances. I for one don't believe in fast all in timing by sub 2800 rpm. Your motor may very!

13. This soooooooo easy!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

gkull, you need to edit points one and six, you forgot to mention what to look for on rockers for cylinder one (watch 1 not moving, or rocking on 6)!

 

after the intake closes is all I'm concerned with, which is 60 degrees after bottom dead center for a comp cams 268 cam. You continue to rotate the crank, which is the compression stroke for cylinder #1 and I said watch the damper coming up to it's "Zero" TDC (Top Dead Center) I really don't care to confuse myself with what some other cylinder is doing.

Anybody can take these simple directions and add anything they like. Yes I admit what makes sense to me doesn't always jive to the person I'm talking to.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=73&sb=0

 

Before you pull your old distributor, pull off the cap. Very carefully, sight along the rotor and figure where on the inner fender it points. Take a piece of masking tape and mark it right there, so the center connection of the rotor, the tip of the rotor, and your mark on the fender are all in a straight line. Then do the same thing with your vacuum canister, marking which is which.
For advanced users only: Once you are this far into it, you may be able to realign the distributor to take the kink out of the tach drive cable, as well. I found that if I moved all the plug wires over one tower, it helped. Or you could buy the $40 adapter from any of the Corvette restoration houses.