Rear Bearing Failure
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Rear Bearing Failure
My drivers side rear bearing failed. I do not have the special tools, pullers, or presses for this precise job.
SO... I am thinking about getting a rebuild assembly similar to:
http://corvettespecialty.com/corvett...ly-rh-exchange
The problem I having is that I've already removed the half shaft and the parking brake... and I thought at this point I would be able to figure out how to remove the assembly, so I can bolt on the new one. But I can't figure out how to remove the assembly. Does this require specialized tools etc? I thought that I could just remove the whole assembly and put the new one on. Anyone have any diagrams and a step-by-step with pictures showing how to do this?
If not... I might just buy the entire trailing arm assembly similar to:
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...-Assembly.html
Because I know I can take the this whole thing off and bolt the new one in with no problem.
Any help?
SO... I am thinking about getting a rebuild assembly similar to:
http://corvettespecialty.com/corvett...ly-rh-exchange
The problem I having is that I've already removed the half shaft and the parking brake... and I thought at this point I would be able to figure out how to remove the assembly, so I can bolt on the new one. But I can't figure out how to remove the assembly. Does this require specialized tools etc? I thought that I could just remove the whole assembly and put the new one on. Anyone have any diagrams and a step-by-step with pictures showing how to do this?
If not... I might just buy the entire trailing arm assembly similar to:
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...-Assembly.html
Because I know I can take the this whole thing off and bolt the new one in with no problem.
Any help?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
If you're asking how to complete removal of the trailing arm, there is a bolt that attaches its forward end to a pocket in the rear frame horn directly above where it intersects with the longitudinal frame rail. This bolt is usually quite fossilized and may have to be cut out. There will also be a stack of alignment shims on either side of the arm's forward end, you'll want to save these in their respective places so you don't lose your toe setting. You also didn't mention whether or not you removed the strut rod, whose outboard end is 'trapped' between the lower ears of the suspension upright and uses the shock absorber mount as its attachment. There are special tools for the removal of the shock mount but I was able to remove mine by threading a nut partially onto its end and pounding it loose with a 5 lb. sledge after hosing it down with penetrating oil...often they require more severe forms of persuasion. Once that is done you can remove the trailing arm. If you don't want to attempt rebuilding it (There are replacements available for less than the cost of the bearing replacement tools) there are many vendors out there who offer rebuilt arms, others will post with their recommendations.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 269
From: S.E. MI
St. Jude Donor '15
I used Van Steele to rebuild mine. It cost $200 each with a lifetime warranty. Here are removal instructions.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...home&pageID=11
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...home&pageID=11
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
If you're asking how to complete removal of the trailing arm, there is a bolt that attaches its forward end to a pocket in the rear frame horn directly above where it intersects with the longitudinal frame rail. This bolt is usually quite fossilized and may have to be cut out. There will also be a stack of alignment shims on either side of the arm's forward end, you'll want to save these in their respective places so you don't lose your toe setting. You also didn't mention whether or not you removed the strut rod, whose outboard end is 'trapped' between the lower ears of the suspension upright and uses the shock absorber mount as its attachment. There are special tools for the removal of the shock mount but I was able to remove mine by threading a nut partially onto its end and pounding it loose with a 5 lb. sledge after hosing it down with penetrating oil...often they require more severe forms of persuasion. Once that is done you can remove the trailing arm. If you don't want to attempt rebuilding it (There are replacements available for less than the cost of the bearing replacement tools) there are many vendors out there who offer rebuilt arms, others will post with their recommendations.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
I used Van Steele to rebuild mine. It cost $200 each with a lifetime warranty. Here are removal instructions.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...home&pageID=11
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...home&pageID=11
To clarify some things though:
When removing the spindle flange... does it reall slide right off after removing the cotter pin and nut, or do I need a puller to get it off.
Also it seems that besides that the assembly is held in by those 4 bolts.... is that it (other than disconnecting the shock mount).
It just comes right out?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Like just about anything on a C3 Vette that is not submerged in oil or made of fiberglass the spindle flange is likely covered with a nice fuzzy layer of rust and especially if it's never been removed before it's going to take some persuasion to get off. It's not an interference fit from the factory but years of abuse, rust, etc. tend to stick it down onto the spindle pretty well so if you need to use a puller to get it off by all means do so- just use plenty of penetrating oil (Aerokroil is the best if you can find it) before you start with the puller.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,229
Likes: 656
From: Thunder Bay
I did the one on my '79 last year that has never been apart. It took a 50 ton press to get my spindle out. I have the press that is sold for the purpose, but it wouldn't come close to moving it. If you don't have access to those kind of tools and the expertise to use them, you might be better off removing the whole trailing arm and sending it to someone who does them all the time. Van Steel is one of the best.
Last edited by drwet; May 6, 2011 at 11:26 PM. Reason: kant spel
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Thanks all... I got the bearing assembly off, and I'm sending to VanSteel for rebuild. Can't beat a lifetime warrenty.
I hope the parking brake goes back on fairly easy once I get it back from them!
I hope the parking brake goes back on fairly easy once I get it back from them!
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 409
Likes: 3
From: St. James, NC
I was considering going that route also. The VanSteel instructions suggest that it isn't too difficult to remove the rear wheel bearing assembly. Was it? How difficult was it to seperate the bearing assembly from the trailing arm?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 9,425
Likes: 239
From: Powassan ON
dodosmike
