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I purchased a race car style switch and mounted it to the frame, with a home made bracket, right where the battery ground wire is. I used existing bolt and no holes were drilled. I mounted it so the base or back side of the switch is up between the frame members and only the switch lever protruding below the frame members. I can reach it from the driver’s seat, just open the door and reach back and under, it’s right there. I think this is the best place because of ease of access and if something should go wrong with the wiring (fire), you don’t have to open the door do get to it. I’ve had mine in this location for 20 years and still no problems. I would attach a picture except my car is still in storage.
I decided to use an INTELLITEC "BigBoy" solenoid. It's good for 200 amps continuous duty and 1200 Amps for up to 30 seconds. The solenoid is mounted just in front of the battery. I have a toggle switch hidden in the car. When we park the car, we just flip the toggle - the solenoid "disconnects" the battery. 2 drawbacks... the radio looses the presets and the clock has to be reset. Otherwise... I love it!
David
Heavy duty **** type and you can take the **** with you for even more theft protection. This one comes with a fused bypass so you can maintain power to stereo memory but the fuse is too small to carry the starting current so it still works for anti-theft. Easy enough to pull the fuse if you need total disconnection when working on the car. I'm happy with it.
i used one of those removable key types and mounted it like this on a piece of 5mm copper "L" shaped plate
have modified it since this photo, now has a screw terminal block, so i can have the radio permanently connected
depends on what you are trying to achieve. the race style disconnects need to be wired with the alt so that when the switch is flipped it actually shuts the car off. (this is the real safety issue), but many just use them as a theft deterrent to switch battery power off. also, NHRA race style discos are not made with a plastic housing or allowed to have a remove-able key.
Got that same one. Awesome... Cut down the battery clamp a little and you can slide the battery to the side and have it both firmly held down and cut off with a quick flip.
Previously I tried the screw in type. it was lousy, no where as nice as this knife style. Wouldn't go back.
Keep'em coming
I'm just looking for a cheap alternative to a battery tender. My battery tends to drain over a long period of inactivity and just want to keep from having to put it on the charger whenever I want to go for a spin.
I don't know if they are the best but I have used Wirth products for years on my Corvettes. They are sturdy and dependable. (The fused extra wiring is for a subwoofer.)
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I have a electronic disconnect that is inline with the positive cable and is hidden, it has a key fob to disconnect the battery so it won't start, but still keeps the radio and all electronics connected.
You can also press a button on fob and it will completely disconnect the battery so you would have to reset radio settings etc. and of course there is a button to allow you to start the car.
Next up I have switch to connect the white wire or my MSD6AL to ground
thru a hidden toggle switch, this disables the MSD box and the motor won't start.
And if I leave it for more than 5 minutes I put a coil wire from coil to distributor with no wire inside.
I have a electronic disconnect that is inline with the positive cable and is hidden, it has a key fob to disconnect the battery so it won't start, but still keeps the radio and all electronics connected.
You can also press a button on fob and it will completely disconnect the battery so you would have to reset radio settings etc. and of course there is a button to allow you to start the car.
Next up I have switch to connect the white wire or my MSD6AL to ground
thru a hidden toggle switch, this disables the MSD box and the motor won't start.
And if I leave it for more than 5 minutes I put a coil wire from coil to distributor with no wire inside.
A little bit too much for me. I simply leave the car in the garage at home disconnected. There was an interesting (sad) thread years ago here about a C4 owner whose car suffered what might be called a form of spontaneous combustion. The car just caught fire in his home garage. The house burnt down. That is why I use a disconnect with 37-year-old wiring.
I have a 74. I suppose they are all the same, but was the original battery a side post?
Mine has a lot of issues and one is a weak Interstate battery with top posts. While this will never be a show car, I like to return things like this to stock. It just make sense to me.
Also, anybody have a recommendation for a good battery? I tend to buy Die Hard.
I have a 74. I suppose they are all the same, but was the original battery a side post?
Mine has a lot of issues and one is a weak Interstate battery with top posts. While this will never be a show car, I like to return things like this to stock. It just make sense to me.
Also, anybody have a recommendation for a good battery? I tend to buy Die Hard.
Yes, the original battery was a side post. I am sure Sears would fix you up with an appropriate Die Hard. NAPA has some good lines as well.
If I remember correctly there are only three battery manufacturers left and various brand labels are affixed to them. So really there is not a lot of true choice.
The battery in my 1974 is called MotoMaster (seen in pic above) as it is sold by Canadian Tire here in Canada and that is their house brand name. It is in reality an Exide unit.
With 1050 cranking amps, 875 cold cranking amps, and 125 minutes of reserve it is more than adequate for my car. The warranty is complete for three years and pro-rated to nine years. The price was $110.00CDN.
I use this simple style battery disconnect. Cost $10 at the Carlisle show. Nothing fancy but serves its purpose.
I'm fortunate to live within driving distance to the DEKA battery plant in Lyons Station, PA. I bought an AGM (Absorption Glass Mat) battery for one specific reason: the retail store tech told me this type is the hot ticket if the battery is in the driver's compartment because they do not out gas hydrogen while charging like conventional flooded batteries. The most recognizable name is the Optima brand...which come in colors and have 6 rounded cells. But DEKA's have more power per size because they use a conventional battery shape with the same technology.
They also sell seconds, which is a brand new battery with some cosmetic flaw to the outside of the plastic case. Good for me...half price...and 790 CCA is plenty to spin my mouse motor.
I also bought a charger for it and my gel, deep cycle battery since they both like to be charged at specific voltages in the maintaining phase. http://www.batteryminders.com/batter...f-p-16133.html This model has had some quirks when using their temp sensor so they are coming out with a new, improved model soon. Their tech, Wayne said I'd be getting the first one to test. Crossed fingers.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by paul 74
A little bit too much for me. I simply leave the car in the garage at home disconnected. There was an interesting (sad) thread years ago here about a C4 owner whose car suffered what might be called a form of spontaneous combustion. The car just caught fire in his home garage. The house burnt down. That is why I use a disconnect with 37-year-old wiring.
Not sure I am following you, I have a disconnect 3 of them, you quoted my response like I don't have one and my Vette, garage and house could burn down.
JFYI I added one more disconnect from Painless Wiring today
Hidden in between the battery box and passenger side box, I don't care if I am showing you or anyone else where it is, you have to find the other 3
The disconnect is hidden and it is turned on by a hidden switch, all I have to do is remember where all the hidden switches are and don't flip the ejector seat by mistake