I just toasted my rear bearing on the drivers side. It's pretty bad nothing left of the inside bearing but it still turns. I don't know what shape the spindle is in because it is still quite tight in there and before I go removing it I thought I would talk to you guys about options.
I was wondering if the price for rebuilding at Bairs or Van Steel is for a assy in any condition or if the spindle needs machining would that be extra. I am on a limited budget and don't need any surprises. I was also thinking about just buying the tools and doing the job my self. Still undecided but I need some tips on how to do it my guess is that this will not be my last encounter with rear bearings. I also had the ones on my 79 done at the dealer ship wish I bought the tools back then.
Thanks in advance.
:smash: :smash: :smash:

 

I don't know much about this but did just have Bairs rebuild mine. They were running fine when I sent them. They called me to tell that the TA's looked ok so it would just be a standard rebuild, which tells me there is an extra charge if things are ground up in there.

 

You should read carefully what each place says about their service. I think that they will change the bearigns and anythign else like ruted out T arms, spindles,etc are extra.
I've just rebuild the bearing on my 72 and will be doing the 69's next week. The hardest part so far has been removing the rusted T arms with a torch and sawzall.
If you have the tools and experience with measuring equipment you can do them. Conduct a search because there should be a lot of recent information on rebuilding these. The investment in tools can easily run into several hundred dollars, while the bearings run about $50 for 2 sets.
If you're only going to do this once and have only 1 vette then send them out to Bair's. You'll save money in the long run and they do excellant work. If you want to do them yourself still then go for it and ask questions here.
I actually enjoyed doing them and Tom454 answered several questions along the way that really helped me. In case you didn't know- Tom IS THE REAR BEARING Master. Here on the forum; he is to rear bearings what Lars is to carbs- glad to have them both on board :cheers:
Gary

 

By all means if you know how to work a ratchet and socket do it yourself. I had to let Corvette World in Sacramento CA do mine since mine got so bad that the spindle sheared clean in two, and it was at my parents house and they won't let me work on my car there and I live in Bellevue WA, so I couldn't just tow it home. That was another thread though.

If your bearings got THAT bad then your spindle has seen some serious overheating and that weakens the spindle. If you do the job yourself then it will cost you the same as getting them rebuilt, but you will be able to afford all new parts. The shop that did mine basically just paints the control arms and puts them back together...that's their used part rebuild...they charge $250 for that, and they just use a can of Rustoleum flat black to do the painting and some bearing grease. Quite a scam if you ask me. My final cost was $2,000, and now there's a rattle in the back which sounds like big rig snow chains chinking around in my rear suspension...I hate bubba shops! I'm sure there's shops that actually know how to do a good job, but I haven't found one yet.

Also, if the drivers side is toast then the passenger side is a ticking time bomb...replace that side too! You should be able to get everything done including any tools for less than $600 including new stainless steel rear calipers and can rebuild your half shafts (Corvette World didn't touch the half shafts).


[Modified by Rockn-Roll, 9:48 PM 4/19/2002]

 

Well I am going to try to learn from my mistakes like the last vette I owned I thought I was only going to do it once and it turned out to be twice on that car and now this one and no one knows what the future holds
That's why I figured that it was about time I learned
In the next few weeks I will be rebuilding my rear end so what the he!! there is no such thing as in too deep.

 

I just helped a buddy do his. Both of his were wore out, and needed replacing. We were going to do them ourselves, but did not have a press that would work. I have heard it was hard to do without the proper press, and nobody around my neck of the woods had this press any longer. I had the rest of the tools, just not the press. He ordered complete rebuilt units from baers, with an exchange. These were flawless units and cost 150.00 per side. There was a core charge of 150.00 per unit, but you received that back after they received the core back. But it did depend on if the unit was rebuildable. If the unit was not rebuildable, you did not receive the core charge back for that paticular side.

IMHO buying them already rebuilt, is the best way to do it. :yesnod:

 

A few Questions
1. My chilton manual says to torque to 100 ft pounds. Is this the touque to seat the bearings and what do I do if the nut doesn't line up with the hole for the cotter pin tighten more or losten it off.
2. does any one out there have the origional spec's on the spindle mesurements so I can figure out if the spindle is messed up or not.
Thanks

 

Aaron

Do a search as some time ago there was threads with that size info you are looking for.
bob

 

Bob,
This might be what you are referring to. High res so it can be read; slow to load.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/pau...arings_002.jpg

 

100 FT/Lbs is the spindle nut torque setting. You should use old spindle, polished undersize, or buy a setup tool so you can set the endplay. Use the old nut when settign up the bearings and tighten to 100 ft/lbs. You'll then need a fixture to hold the bearing housing fixed and use an indicator on the setup tool to move in up/down to check the end play. I set them between .001-.002" depending on the indicator and the way you shim th e bearings. I use a surface grinder to grind the spacer down to a few tenths. The shim kits come with various sizes so you can get pretty close. I start with the original and check the endplay then +/- the amount needed to bring it down to .001-.002". Do this dry with only spindle oil on the bearings. Once you have the correct endplay then you can install the outer seal then the outer bearing. I use a press but you can use a pipe to tap the inner race on as long as the only thign you're hitting is the inner race and not the rollers. Grease them up add the inner bearing,seal and torque to 100 ft/lbs with a new nut. If the hole doesn't line up go past it till it does. It should rotate smooth without any binding or noise.If you found the previous posts there is a picture of the support fixture I made up to check the end play.
Gary

 

Thanks to every body for the help I will keep you posted as to my sucess
Wish me luck.