1978 Differential - Repair Help & Advice
12-07-2011, 03:15 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I’m afraid that I only came back to this thread by chance.
But, I see that Lynn has asked about the work etc. I’m happy to say that I completed the change of the yokes. Having done “all the reading” and had lots of very useful advice, my wife and I tackled this in August. Removing all the various parts to get to the point of dropping the diff was straightforward, possibly because most of it had been out during the last 10 years or so. Getting the chassis cross member to “drop” took only a little persuasion, after a good soak overnight in WD40. You do need to be careful lowering the unit with a jack, but as long as the car is high enough there’s plenty of room to get under and manoeuvre the thing down gently. Getting the worn yokes out was a bit of a “challenge” but we managed it, even if we did need to “clean up” inside the diff afterwards! I painted all the parts I removed, and used plenty of copper grease once again during the re-assembly. Including a day’s delay while waiting for a mislaid diff gasket we did the whole thing in 5 days, working “respectable hours” and stopping for lunch etc (well, this is France!) Everything went back nicely and the car successfully completed a 1000 mile tour of The Dordogne, in SW France!
And, I think I’d say Lynn, that if you hear a squeak from the yoke, you may want to actually look closely to see how far the whole thing has moved it towards the diff cover. If it wears and goes “too” far in, it’ll hit the cover, or the oil seal guard will. Worse, the U/J bolt ends can hit the cover.
There are some photos on my little web site if you want to see how we did it…….
But, I see that Lynn has asked about the work etc. I’m happy to say that I completed the change of the yokes. Having done “all the reading” and had lots of very useful advice, my wife and I tackled this in August. Removing all the various parts to get to the point of dropping the diff was straightforward, possibly because most of it had been out during the last 10 years or so. Getting the chassis cross member to “drop” took only a little persuasion, after a good soak overnight in WD40. You do need to be careful lowering the unit with a jack, but as long as the car is high enough there’s plenty of room to get under and manoeuvre the thing down gently. Getting the worn yokes out was a bit of a “challenge” but we managed it, even if we did need to “clean up” inside the diff afterwards! I painted all the parts I removed, and used plenty of copper grease once again during the re-assembly. Including a day’s delay while waiting for a mislaid diff gasket we did the whole thing in 5 days, working “respectable hours” and stopping for lunch etc (well, this is France!) Everything went back nicely and the car successfully completed a 1000 mile tour of The Dordogne, in SW France!
And, I think I’d say Lynn, that if you hear a squeak from the yoke, you may want to actually look closely to see how far the whole thing has moved it towards the diff cover. If it wears and goes “too” far in, it’ll hit the cover, or the oil seal guard will. Worse, the U/J bolt ends can hit the cover.
There are some photos on my little web site if you want to see how we did it…….
12-07-2011, 10:16 PM
#22
5th Gear
Member Since: Nov 2011
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Thanks so much for your and everyones advise. I just finished changing the last u-joint and the noise is still there. Looks like it's time to drop the rear end! At least all the u-joints are fresh!
