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after fitting a pair 1" wheel adapters i have this problem only at left front tire when turning left
245/60/15
camber : about 1,5 deg neg
caster maxed out : about 2,75 deg
i was thinking to reduce the caster to 2 deg or so. will it solve the problem?
if reducing caster is the way to go , does someone know what amount of caster is usually given with an equal number of shims front and rear at caster adjustment?
the minilite wheels have less backspace than oem wheels and they stick well in . i used the spacer to gain the correct back space again, actually it's just a tad more , in fact the tire doesn't stick out of the fender. uhmm i don't know what to do now...
What about trying a smaller spacer such as 3/4". You could maybe find something to use to shim wheel out till you get the right thickness to work then have your spacers ground to that thickness or order that thickness if possible. The only options are to shave fender or shorten springs so front sits slightly lower. You didnt happen to have put new springs on when doing this?
Our old Vettes were really just poorly designed. I couldn't take it anymore and just went and bought the Daytona front end. The wheel wells are two inches farther back. I had to cut off two inches from the lower aluminum side vallances.
I run 4.00 caster and have considered machining out the adjustment slot .250 and getting over 5.0 degrees.
The pictures are 255/45 or 50 17's with 317/35/17 rears
George! that first photo is AWESOME with Tahoe in the background, the second one with the rag on the fender needs to go into the delete file
That rag is my drying towel just cleaning before heading to the race track. The second lake tahoe picture is up their driving at 8000 feet above sea level on a calm clear day. For driving at sea level I add three or four jet sizes front and rear
Check the bolts retaining your control arm bushings. I had exactly the same problem with my '79. Turned out the bolt retaining the rear lower control arm bushing had backed out.
Our old Vettes were really just poorly designed. I couldn't take it anymore and just went and bought the Daytona front end. The wheel wells are two inches farther back. I had to cut off two inches from the lower aluminum side vallances.
I don't know that it's fair to say that old Vettes, are poorly designed. Except for a couple vehicles that cost 50 to 100 percent more than the Vette, they were far superior to just about anything else built at the time.
The 80-82 nose has slightly different wheel openings, or positioning. Because of this, the 80-82 rocker moldings (what I assume you are calling "lower aluminum side valances"), are shorter than 70-79 rockers. Since the Daytona nose is based on the stock 80-82 nose, this is probably why you needed to trim your rockers. The fact that the Daytona nose is aftermarket fiberglass, may contribute to the differences too.
By the way, I'm not a big fan of customs, but that is a good looking car, and a very nice picture (well maybe not so much the one with "drying towel").
The stock C3 wheels have a zero offset; the centerline of the wheel is equal to the mounting surface. An 8" wheel has a 4" backspace, for example. What offset do you have?
The 15x8 minilite wheels have about 4 1/2" backspace
so i could use a suitable 1/2" spacer to have same specs as 15" rally wheels. the point is that i wanted to use those 1" wheels adapters to increase the front track width, and i don't like spacers
i'll see if i can mill down the wheel adapters but it seems that i can't mill them as much as i would like.
i have tried to reduce the caster : i gain some clearance but not enough
Drwet . the bolt you say was just slightly loose. tightened but no difference
I have bolted again the wheels without adaptors while deciding what to do
The 15x8 minilite wheels have about 4 1/2" backspace
so i could use a suitable 1/2" spacer to have same specs as 15" rally wheels. the point is that i wanted to use those 1" wheels adapters to increase the front track width, and i don't like spacers
i'll see if i can mill down the wheel adapters but it seems that i can't mill them as much as i would like.
i have tried to reduce the caster : i gain some clearance but not enough
Drwet . the bolt you say was just slightly loose. tightened but no difference
I have bolted again the wheels without adaptors while deciding what to do
Had the same issue with 255/45's on my '68 when fitting 18 x 8's on the front - except that for me the issue was the passenger side and yes the wheel interfered with the rear of the fender on right-hand lock. (I guess its the 'hand assembled' nature of the cars - or the car has been in a fender bender at some point) Temporarily I changed the caster on the affected side, this effectively moved the wheel forward in the opening - not the best solution as the handling can become bizarre at times! - shaving the end of the rocker moulding may help a little - the real answer is to section the rear of the opening to allow the clearance needed. Remember to test clearance either side when braking hard - both in drive and in reverse!
Not to get this side tracked but someone mentioned getting car in house. I was looking at car so much I never noticed house.LOL Can you take a pic from outside looking down ramp? That is a very cool setup.