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Old May 16, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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Default stock cam questions

My 77 is all stock besides carb. I am going to be changing valve covers soon, and I'm wanting to check the valve lash but want to know what its supposed to be set at originally in case its out of spec.
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Old May 16, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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Under "other" up above there's a C-3 Tech. Look under it for valve lash. That will tell you everything, what you want to know and need.
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Old May 16, 2011 | 10:21 PM
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If stock you have a hydraulic cam and the valve lash is zero.
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Old May 16, 2011 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldguard 7
If stock you have a hydraulic cam and the valve lash is zero.
There are numerous posts/ threads beating the poor old "How to adjust the hydraulic valves on my small block Chevy" horse to death on this forum. I PERSONALLY prefer 1/2 turn past zero lash for my smallblocks; if you haven't already you will see opinions running the gamut from 1/4 turn to 1 full turn. Half a turn has always worked for me...
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Old May 17, 2011 | 02:03 AM
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There has been many tales from backing off till it 'talks' by clatter and then tightening until it wheezes and then back off a 1/4 turn.

Nothing like setting valves on a old cut open valve cover spewing oil all over the manifolds /headers and causing a possible fire. Does anyone remember those small plastic oil reduction devices that would clip onto the rocker to reduce the oil from the push rod? Wow, $17.00 dollars I wont get back.

I take the valve to the 'top' as measured on the rocker arm and 'feel - twist' the pushrod for a recognize amount of resistance but not binding and then tighten 1/2 turn. We use studs and lock nuts.

I have ran a .533 lift flat tappet hydraulic cam to 6500 rpms over 750 times and had no valve train trouble using nothing more than Manley valves and GM Z-28 springs.

Dano,
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Old May 17, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironman Motorsports
My 77 is all stock besides carb. I am going to be changing valve covers soon, and I'm wanting to check the valve lash but want to know what its supposed to be set at originally in case its out of spec.
I agree with all the posts on here, but my question is this, you cam is hydraulic and the only way for there to be a lash problem is if your lobes are wiped out. In this case you would need a new cam. Unless you have lifter noise there is nothing to be gained by playing with them. Hopefully your not trying to chase a problem here. I would leave them alone. The only reason that they are adjusted is to make sure they dont bottom out or come off the lifter seat.
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Old May 17, 2011 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Timsride
I agree with all the posts on here, but my question is this, you cam is hydraulic and the only way for there to be a lash problem is if your lobes are wiped out. In this case you would need a new cam. Unless you have lifter noise there is nothing to be gained by playing with them. Hopefully your not trying to chase a problem here. I would leave them alone. The only reason that they are adjusted is to make sure they dont bottom out or come off the lifter seat.
If you read the tech. article on this, they say there is a gain at the top end. You gain anywhere from 300-600? RPM at top. This is due to factory settings on the lash to help keep the rpm's low so noone would over-rev and bring the car in under warranty for a fix. This may not sound like alot, but added to the advanced curve, dropping emmision equip. and adding dual exhaust it all add's up. Just like saving pennies. LOL.
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Old May 17, 2011 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Timsride
your cam is hydraulic and the only way for there to be a lash problem is if your lobes are wiped out. In this case you would need a new cam.


right on target!
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