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Looking for pictures and suggestions on how to bond these flares.
I will use the upper bonding strip for the top but not sure where to go with the front and rear. Not one to re-invent the wheel so I thought someone out there would share their "wheel" with me
Whenever I have laid glass I didn't glue the parts together first. I just mixed the resin as recommended and used that to bond the two pieces together. Just make sure the pieces are clamped together real tight and the fiberglass is fully cured. It's ok to go a few inches over on each side with the fiberglass. Just sand where needed to get the smoothest look possible
Here are some pics from the late RollingThunder's flair install. He used some of the old fender for bonding strips and then screwed/clamped the flairs inplace while the glue set, removing the screws afterwards.
I think there is a difference between the flares that end at the base of the radius vs. the full panel like I'm doing. If I just glass them on the surface the whole body line gets lost.
read this thread. it is only 94 pages long but stinger is doing everything on his body correctly and perfectly. the guy is amazing. pictures and all. it is over in the general section
To install the Eckler's ZL-1 flares, I used FUSOR #127EZ plastic structural installation adhesive, slow set formula. [I also used it to attach the cold air box to the underside of the heavy duty hood] I used TEK screws to fasten them in place, lining up the body lines. Then I trimmed the excess from both the flares and the original wheel wells. No cracks or delamination so far. Pennsylvania's roads are legendary for being the worst in the nation. And my F-41 suspension rides like the proverbial stonepile.
Last edited by 69 Chevy; May 21, 2011 at 08:58 AM.
To install the Eckler's ZL-1 flares, I used FUSOR #127EZ plastic structural installation adhesive, slow set formula. [I also used it to attach the cold air box to the underside of the heavy duty hood] I used TEK screws to fasten them in place, lining up the body lines. Then I trimmed the excess from both the flares and the original wheel wells. No cracks or delamination so far. Pennsylvania's roads are legendary for being the worst in the nation. And my F-41 suspension rides like the proverbial stonepile.
Yes. But I did not cut away my OEM fender all the way to the bonding strip. I trimmed away lots of the, what I thought, was extra material. I taper-ground the area and overlapped. I did not want any butt joints where potential cracks could start. And yes, the front of the flare, where it joins to the spoiler chin did not match perfectly...it needed a bit of fabricating to get it to blend into the contour. Sorry no pics of that area.
Roco 71, you cannot imagine how many hours I spent block sanding those compound curves good enough for the black paint job. And it's only temporary. One of these days, months, years, it's going back to its original Monaco Orange color.
Blain, My flares from are from Eckers, about 30 years ago this was done.
How we are striping it for a new color.
The stock spoiler fit ok i think, i might of had to trim the ends.
Had to do very little work under the chins if i remember correctly.
Just put the spoiler and valence back on to drive the car, the spoiler does help with the air flow. Hope this helps
Sure wish my Eckler front bumper fit as good as yours, spending more time on the bumper than i did to strip the body.
I really had to fight the front bumper. Even questioned Vanacors about the fit. I "releaved" some of the grill area to get the part to flex far enough to mate with the front clip.
So looking at your front spoiler it appears flat across the top. My '74 curls up at the ends to meet the contour of the fender. Did you cut that part off?