Strut rod adjustment
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 208
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From: Hamden CT
St. Jude Donor '12
Strut rod adjustment
When setting the rear struts rods to achieve the proper camber. Is the weight of the vehicle supposed to be on the suspension (ie car on the ground) or is it supposed to be done with rear of car off the ground?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 266
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From: York Pa.
You can do it with it on the ground but it does stress the eccentric bolt washers..unless you greased the bajesus out of them it may round one over..I know its a pita jacking up the car to do it..but its better that way..unless you got the turnbuckle style..then go of it on the ground! !
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
I've not had much luck trying to set camber with the suspension hanging. The two locating "links" (strut rod and half shaft) in the C3 IRS are not parallel, so the camber changes with suspension travel.
Do a google search for Set_Rear_Wheel_Camber.PDF by Lars Grimsrud
Do a google search for Set_Rear_Wheel_Camber.PDF by Lars Grimsrud
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 593
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From: London England
You should adjust it with the car car jacked up but it can only be checked with the weight of the car on the suspension on level ground.
When you let the weight back down on the car or make an adjustment, it needs to be rolled/driven a couple of yards backwards and forwards to get the suspension 'settled' before taking the next measurement.
When you let the weight back down on the car or make an adjustment, it needs to be rolled/driven a couple of yards backwards and forwards to get the suspension 'settled' before taking the next measurement.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
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From: columbia city in
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
From: London England
That's quite a good guide except that you should do the camber first, then the toe, as the camber influences the toe way more than the toe influences the camber.
You should always recheck both figures before finishing the job, they can't be taken as two completely separate jobs because of the way they interact with each other.
Also if you use blanket figures like '¼ to ½ degree negative camber' the car needs to be stock. If the car is lowered or has different springs/shocks then the optimum camber setting depends on roll stiffness and ride height.
You should always recheck both figures before finishing the job, they can't be taken as two completely separate jobs because of the way they interact with each other.
Also if you use blanket figures like '¼ to ½ degree negative camber' the car needs to be stock. If the car is lowered or has different springs/shocks then the optimum camber setting depends on roll stiffness and ride height.
