1968 corvette roadster built December 1967. Turn signals quit working shortly after taking from winter storage. Have checked all bulbs, have installed new switch in column, have changed flashers (early 68"s located in console under radio), all lights work (including 4 way flashers) except the turn signals -front, rear, indicators. When applying the brakes while the turn signal is activated the opposite brake light works but the side for which the turn signal is activated has no lights. On the turn signal switch in the column the purple wire 12v feed for turn signals carries 12v this wire goes into the four way flashers. If I jump wire around the 4 way switch -purple wire to red wire - the turn signals work which would indicate that I do not have a ground problem, I am wondering if I am missing something or if the new switch (ZIP products - Boyne type) has the same defect as the original switch? Both the new and old switch appear to be solid spring loaded with no apparent defect, lose connection etc.

 

my 68 has the tele-scopic column,and by adjusting it in or out,just a hair,will allow my turn signals to start working again,,something with the contacts inside the column,i suppose. good luck,tom-in cleveland

 

Tom

Thanks but I do not have a telescopic column, I should have mentioned that in my original description of the problem

 

Greg,try turning the left signal on and then checking the Lt blue and Yellow wires in the harmonica connector,check both sides of the connector.
If you have no power at those 2 wires its probably a bad switch.

edit-reread your post,where is this red wire you jumpered ?
What are your wire colors in the switch harmonica connector?

 

Roger

Thanks for the information but I do have my switch in the open as I have not put it back together so I can actually test my connections at the switch. Here are my wire colors:

Down the column for the left front is black/light blue this connects to the light blue at the harmonica

Down the column for the left rear is the Black/Yellow which connects to the Yellow at the harmonica

The red wire I am referring to is as follows: In the actual switch on the colum going into one side of the 4 way flasher switch is a Purple wire a live 12v feed for the turn signal, a brown wire which is the 12v feed for the 4 way flashers and the Light blue/black wire which is the front left turn signal wire (this wire also connects to the turn signal activator). On the other side of the 4 way flasher switch is a Dark Blue wire which interconnects to the front right turn signal dark blue wire: a white wire which is interconnected with the black/white wire for the 12v supply from the brake pedal and the red wire which runs to one side of the turn signal activator. The red wire and the white wire do not run down the column they are only switch connects on the actual switch. The only way I can get spark to the turn signals is to by pass the 4 way switch going from the purple on one side to the red on the other. by doing this I am running a direct wire from the 12v incoming purple wire to the turn signal input via the red wire. Hope this isn't too complicated but I do have the switch and the wiring diagram in front of me as I type. Thanks for any help, I am just struggling with the low probability of my new switch and old switch having the same problem.

 

Got it. So if you jump the purple to the red , the turn signals will operate normally ?
If so it sounds like the 4 way is not returning all the way from 4 way mode.

 

Roger

Yes that is correct, purple to red bypassing the 4 way switch allows the turn signals to work correctly. However in both my original switch and the new switch the 4 way mechanism appears to be functioning correctly in and out, appears tight. Just hoping I have overlooked something.

Thanks

 

Lets try this using your ohm meter ,disconnect the harmonica connector, 4 way pulled out or off ,working on the switch side connector,ohm meter on low setting or buzzer setting,touch black probe to purple , red probe to lt blue,switch turn lever to left signal position,ohm meter should buzz or read low resistance.
If not the switch is open somewhere.

 

Roger

Thanks for your help and direction. The problem is solved. Here is the rest of the story.

I put the ohm meter on the old switch as you suggested at the Purple wire and the light blue or front turn signal wire. The ohms showed that the four way switch was open. No matter what I did to close the switch (push in and out, wiggle around) it would not close, so I believe that to be the original problem when the turn signals stopped working.

I then performed the same test on the new turn signal switch. It too showed open on the ohm meter. I pushed the four way switch in and out several times and then the switch showed closed, the switch now works for four way and turn signals. Eventually being new it was stiff enough not to come completely open. (good information for those purchasing new turn signal switches).

Thanks so much for you good help

Greg

 

Glad you got it working.