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I have just replced all the A arm bushes, Ball Joints, Tie rod ends, Etc & now its time to get an alignment.
The question is:
As I am Down Under & the car is right hand drive, Can the alignment shop use the specs (for camber, castor & toe in) in the Aim & invert them to get the correct setup???
Thanks in advance
They shouldnt have to invert them as negative is negative and positive is positive. The wheels don't know where the steering wheel is located. Unless your negative is opposite ours. Just kidding couldnt resist. Can you please post pics or send them to me of interior? I have lots of pics of Corvettes but none with steering wheel on other side. I would like to add that to my collection.
Thanks Roger & Russde,
I suspect that because the fall of the road is on the opposite side here, it would be like you driving on the wrong side of the road. Your car may drift to the left if you were constantly on that side.
& Timsride, I will try to get you a photo When I get out next.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I don't set up for crown. Suggest the best starting point for most is to select specs from VBP's guide which best match your driving, and not settle for "within tolerance" work. Go here and click on Alignment Specs.
I don't set up for crown. Suggest the best starting point for most is to select specs from VBP's guide which best match your driving, and not settle for "within tolerance" work. Go here and click on Alignment Specs.
TSW
Thanks TSW,
I think these specs will be a big help.
I guess I will finally find out when I get it done.
I just had mine aligned 2 weeks ago. The tech said he puts in .1 degree more camber to compensate for road crown. When I told him my driving was mainly on interstate highways he said, "then nevermind." So I would agree that downunder your front camber specs should be reversed if compensating for road crown with RHD. All other specs remain the same.
I just had mine aligned 2 weeks ago. The tech said he puts in .1 degree more camber to compensate for road crown. When I told him my driving was mainly on interstate highways he said, "then nevermind." So I would agree that downunder your front camber specs should be reversed if compensating for road crown with RHD. All other specs remain the same.
Any mechanic that tells you suspension should be set differently side to side should not be let anywhere near your car.
Crown of the road and different settings from side to side
Got to the Vette Brakes site for settings. IMO dial in as much castor as possible like 3.9 camber maybe .3 deg neg and 1/16th toe in
Originally Posted by Golden
The settings will be exactly the same for RHD or LHD.
Not an alignment guy here but I have a question.
When i worked as a new car mechanic in a Caddy dealer back in the early 70s we were instructed by the factory 1 year to change the castor settings on all the new cads except the eldorado to compensate for road crown due to customer complaints of drifting right. It took care of the problem(so the customers said),was this some kind of fudging due to a bad geometry in the steering ?
(If I remember right we pushed the RF wheel forward.)
The 70's was a transitional period for car suspension technology, when you compare the steering, ride and road holding of late 60's to early 70's car with an early 80's it's like engineering travelled through 3 decades, not 1.
I think like any fast paced change, there were a few hiccups on the way
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
FWIW, all 3 GM duallies I've had ('79, '84, '91) came with factory endorsed bubba alignment. Very quickly ruined the fronts on that first one before realizing it. Took the next two straight to an alignment shop upon delivery.
I get very confused when confronted with specs in inches, inches are not a geometric value, where are you supposed to measure these figures?
The only figure in inches is toe in or toe out. All the other figures camber and castor are degrees
Toe in is exactly what it means. If the two tires are perfectly straight they would be at "Zero inches of Toe"
I went to a nice looking alignment shop and at the front desk ask for specific front and rear alignment specs. 45 minutes later my car is done and the person hands me a printout of the digital alignment. The numbers were different from side to side. NOT ANYTHING LIKE I PUT ON THE WORK ORDER. I flew off the handle and told him that he just wasted an hour of my time. So the manager and I go back to the tech and ask him what's up. He told me that it was not what the alignment book said the specs were. He also took the + and - values to new level. I said with a roll cage and racing numbers on the door does it look like your grandmothers grocery getting Corvette? He was just your typical worker that believed close is good enough. No pride in his work. Instead of screwing with him I just refused to pay and drove off to another shop
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I've never really figured out why toe is given in inches at the tread. As tire diameter grows, a given toe measurement will geometrically yield less toe in degrees. I finally just went and developed a little spreadsheet of my own to ease converting back and forth.
George, as you know, your alignment shop story is all too common.