When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am switching my dist. back to original with pertronix ignition. My question is do I use the ballast resistor thats hooked up to my mallory dist, or do I remove it? I think I should remove it but I wanted to check with the electrical guys. Thanks in advance for any help.
I mean I have the original dist. housing and center shaft with weights but the points are replaced with the pertronics system. I want to use my original tach but loose the points.
I think its the first one not the 2 or 3. A buddy had it on his dist. and wasnt using it for quite a while so he offered it to me. I went on line looking at the install manual and it said if balast resistor is there use it if it isnt there dont. Not very clear. Thanks for the help guys.
Sorry, I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but this resistance wire subject has always confused me and I don't want to post another thread on the same subject.
Just what is the actual purpose of the resistance wire in the original stock system. And why do I need to replace it if I install the Pertronix.
If I don't replace the resistance wire, after installing the Pertronix, what effect will this have on the system, starting and or running?
Im not an expert, just know the basics. Thats why I posted but I believe the resistance wire is designed to cut down voltage supplied to dist. The Pertronix (spelled it right this time.LOL) system needs the full voltage to start. They are saying to run a wire from where the pink one comes from ( you dont have to remove pink wire) so electricity will make the trip through either wire and give full voltage. As for not doing this I don't know if it just won't start or if pink wire will melt down? If one of the guys checks back on this they can respond.
There is a wire going to the starter solenoid, it takes the battery cable heavy wire voltage via a contact inside the assy, and feeds it to the + of the ignition coil when engine is cranking, that way the dizzy sees full available voltage, which CAN be as lo as 9.5 volts but should ideally never be lower than 10.5 volts....
now with engine running that resistor goes from the +12 volt to the + on the coil....the reason for that is to limit the current through the coil especially at idle, two reasons, one is to keep the points from burning up from too much current, second is to keep coil from overheating .....
if you put a DVM on the + side of coil with engine running, you will see about 9.5 or so volts on it....and that will vary with idle speed and point dwell.....
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by mrvette
There is a wire going to the starter solenoid, it takes the battery cable heavy wire voltage via a contact inside the assy, and feeds it to the + of the ignition coil when engine is cranking, that way the dizzy sees full available voltage, which CAN be as lo as 9.5 volts but should ideally never be lower than 10.5 volts....
now with engine running that resistor goes from the +12 volt to the + on the coil....the reason for that is to limit the current through the coil especially at idle, two reasons, one is to keep the points from burning up from too much current, second is to keep coil from overheating .....
if you put a DVM on the + side of coil with engine running, you will see about 9.5 or so volts on it....and that will vary with idle speed and point dwell.....
You're a sharp guy, Gene. Don't stop typing before you explain to the OP why the DVM reads 9.5v on a 12v system.