Need an extra cap. (7QT?) pan for a 68 big block, without sacrificing ground clearance. And perhaps a matching windage tray. What works boys? Thanks in advance.

 

The factory LS-7 pan and tray is simple and proven effective. What are you going to be doing with it? With 4" or shorter strokes the Moroso 20403 ( I think that's right) works well. For longer strokes you need to deal with the forward section of the pan.

I use the Milodon 31188 stepped drag race pan with integral tray and it does perfect. Oil pressure never waivers at WOT or on the brakes. I don't do much wild cornering..so not sure what it does there. It's about even with the bottom of the scattershield and above my headers..but it is deeper than stock.

I don't necessarily like *kickout* pans with big wide sumps. Whatever oil gets back to pan is spread over a wider area and is more likely to uncover the pickup.

Stef's makes some real nice stuff.

You'll find oil pans seem to work best when left simple unless they are purposely designed for a particular thing..like left turns or something.

JIM

 

I use the LS7 pan on my BBC C3 with the Moroso 22150 std volume pump, GM pickup spot-welded to the pump, and Milodon diamond stripper windage tray.

 

Here's one from summit Racing to check out.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-20401/


Scott

 

Thanks Jim and you others for the replies.
I like the integral windage tray bonus of the Moroso one you mention, and I agree, I don't like the wide bodies either. Do you recommend a main stud set up instead of bolts to boost strength?

 

Are you experiencing loss of pressure/prime now? ...and if so during what conditions? Just want to point out that you may well need to look at a specialty pan and/or additional devices if you're having such issues due to heavy cornering forces.

FWIW, I use main studs in pretty much any high-perf build.

 

Thanks to all for the replies. The Moroso is pricey at $450+, even if you consider the integral tray. I may check out the GM pan. What I was told was if you use a high volume pump, you need to make sure you don't pump the pan dry in some circumstances.

brand new build going into an original 68 roadster. Moderate to hard street duty is the goal.

 

High volume pumps only get to *X* pressure quicker. If the spring is set at 70 psi..that's all the max oil it's going to move. Just the HV will maintain higher pressures at lower RPM's. Nothing magic about them...or bad really.

If you've built looser clearances into the motor, or have lots of internal leaks...likes pressurized solid roller lifters or flat tappets with the EDM oiling holes then the HV helps a lot. I like the HV pumps but I build things a little looser for 7500 RPM and I like to see good low speed pressures on the street when oil is hot. Plus I just feel good with higher oil pressure. Not logical or necessary...just feels good!

You need to make sure the heads have a clear drain path back to pan. Sometimes head gaskets hang out and block the holes. Open drain holes the best you can to get oil back to the pan. That's the real issue.

Make sure if you use a bolt on type tray that the front edge is away from pan so oil can drain between it and pan.

Studs are always a good idea....but I can tell you my Merlin block still uses bolts after 10 + years of abuse. Stock blocks can be helped with studs and good machine work.

While the HV pump is fine, you can also use the stock pump with the high pressure spring and do fine if clearances are somewhat normal.

The LS-7 pan has worked for years on some real fast cars. Double check the pickup tube. Apparently there was a batch out there that had issues where the screen attached to the tube. Make sure to weld tube to pump or add a bolt on strap to make sure it doesn't come out.

JIM

 

Jim

i use this oem oil pan with the related windage tray ( it has a front flap door)



which is the difference in respect to the LS7 oil pan you say ?or just the same at the end?

my question is : i added 1qt more oil for track days to avoid possible oil priming loss. May i add even more oil ? 427 crank

which the problems with too much oil? just power loss or other? i prefer to save the engine and loose some hp

 

That look pretty close. Looks like they may have added a flat shield at the front now days. Been a long time since I held one in my hands.

http://sdparts.com/details/gm-perfor...parts/14091356

Too much oil can cause as much issue as too little. If it gets in contact with the crank it will start to *pull* it out of the pan and wrap around crank and also foam the oil real bad. Aerated oil is bad. Again...drainback is the key. Big blocks dump oil on top of the cam/crank which doesn't help much.

It's one of those things you just need to test for how you drive. Keep an eye on oil pressure and see if it drops from aeration at high RPM. At that point you can either try .5 qt more or .5 qt less and see what it does. Every car is different with respect to how many G's it can pull and on what course you're on with RPM at whatever speed.

I'd still use the biggest filter I could get (2 qt) and use that to add some overall capacity and make sure filtration didn't cut things. I also wouldn't run the mega restrictive type filters. Use something a little more open if you're running hard.


JIM

 

Check out Aviad and Canton, they both make C3 road race pans with windage trays.

 

Thanks Jim
which brand-model filter do you recommend?

 

Check out Kevko pans. I've got a kicked out 7qt. It's a nice pan and the price was right. I run a Steeroids rack so I can't comment on it fitting a stock steering configuration. Good luck.

 

For those suggesting the extra capacity road racing pan , i have already discarded this option:
-it seems that it doesn't work that well
-it's expensive : the Milodon RR is usd400 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-31555/

i prefer to keep the OEM oil pan and spend some more money and go for an accusump if necessary. That's why i'm still testing the oem oil pan with 1qt more : it seems that it works fine at the racetrack if i pay attention at just some long turns

 

Aldo, if you haven't already seen this you might find this worth reading...

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?CatCode=20002

FWIW, since I have all of the necessary bits for dual remotes I may well step up to twin Moroso 22465's, given I'm already doing the Accusump and external cooler anyway.

 

TSW
yes good tip on those Moroso oil filters. i would surely go for one of those above all because due to headers clearance i'm forced to use a 1qt oil filter with its inherent flow restriction , so a less restricted one is surely what i need