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If you are stuck with a 327/300 for instance ('68) can you stroker it to - 350-ish??? OR: simply pull it and replace with more engine? This would be for a weekend putt-around car. No drags - no wanna-be road racing, etc. Maybe go with a good 327 torque rebuild instead?
Reason I'm asking is possibility of sourcing a mid-teens '68 to tinker with versus 25K-plus '69 - '72 car.
Yes you can. It has the same bore as a 350 so a 350 crank is easy but why not make it a 383 or 396 with a longer stroke. If you are replacing the crank and pistons go bigger. More torque = more fun.
Yeah, 327 and 350, basically same block. I think there may be an issue with crank journal sizes on certain years, tho, it may not be as easy as just dropping in a 350 crank. Nothing a little machine work won't fix, tho.
If that's a small journal block, it's 2-bolt. I'd leave it alone, snag a 4-bolt 350 core and stroke that, leave the 327 alone. Store it and take care of it. It's kinda historic/nostalgic and was the cat's A$$ through the mid-60's.
OK, chevy changed the rod and main journal sizes in 1968, so your '68 block should be fine. A 3.48" stroke crank from a 350 should drop right in to replace the 3.25" crank in your 327. A 3.75 crank with a .030 over bore will net you a 383, but you will need to clearance the block with a grinder to clear the longer crank stroke, so it's not quite as easy as making it a 350.
You cannot just slip a 350 crank in place of the 327 crank without also replacing the pistons as the wrist pin height is different to make up for the 1/4" difference in stroke. The 5.7" rod length can stay the same.
302's were made 3 ways:
1. OEM from the factory in late 60's Camaros
2. Boring out a 283 by .125"
3. Sticking a 283 crank in a 327 block
if the main journals are same YOUR 327, both 305 & 350 have same 3.48" stroke. I'd choose a 350 assembly.
Many 327 blocks have bulky, longer cylinder skirts that will probably get in the way of larger strokes.
all in all, probably smarter money to just stick another motor in it.
But, if you stroke it, I'll offer to buy the old 327 crank if ... IF it's BOTH forged and has large (350) mains ... and in pretty good condition (will clean & polish at 10/10).
As the others said, yes you can but it would be cheaper and wiser just to pick up a 350 block and stroke it, dress it up as a 327.
Or, get a good 400 block and do the same. now youretalking.
On 350s...you can buy a late model 1 piece rear main seal motor that uses hyd. roller lifters from the factory, 4 bolt mains. Nice little bonus
Nobody would be the wiser and no FT cam issues.
The only reason to keep a 327 or 283 block and stroke it is if you absolutely need the road draft hole in the back of the block for appearances, or if you want a matching numbers stroker. Yep, lots of guys have 283 and 327s stroked to 383 and one buddy has a 283 stroked 396 with about $2,000 just in block work. Waay cheaper and better to start with a roller block these days.
Keep in mind that with small stock heads you are RPM limited due to poor airflow.
Or just build up the 327 for some high winding fun.
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Jul 2, 2011 at 11:31 AM.
Back in the day we use to destroke a 327 to a 301.
Now there is a motor that will wind and wind.
It was the stay for circle track cars for years.
I believe it was a 283 crank and rods in a 327.
I don't truel remember the set up, it may of beem a 327 crank in a 283.
But that was 40 years ago.
Ralph
Actually, that was the exact formula GM used for the original 302 Z-28 Camaros to stay withing the 5.0 litre Trans Am racing class, and was a 283 crank in a 327. Really think the OP's looking for more street torque though, with higher cubes usually the way.
Well, looks like we're moving into different territory here, and agree a mid 90's LT1's not a good idea, as had one. Currently running LS motor cars, and just cant beat modern engineering advancements. 120 lbs lighter too. Just dropping in a larger iron small block is easiest, but World Products has a cross breed SB LS block that fits older engine mounts. Can do lots of cubes with this, and head design flows way better.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Take for free but shop for bigger cores.
Early small journal 327's were all forged pieces. And early pre '70 blocks will take a large bore. If u get it for free it will make a great spare and learning experience. If it costs >$20 keep looking for a "good" 350" or 400" core.
Too many items to look for then try and list here. And who know what u really want here?
Myself i would go for hi rpm short block with roller cam using that 327".
cardo0
If you are stuck with a 327/300 for instance ('68) can you stroker it to - 350-ish??? OR: simply pull it and replace with more engine? This would be for a weekend putt-around car. No drags - no wanna-be road racing, etc. Maybe go with a good 327 torque rebuild instead?
Reason I'm asking is possibility of sourcing a mid-teens '68 to tinker with versus 25K-plus '69 - '72 car.
Thoughts
I just removed a decent 427 from my 68 and re-installed my original 327 back into it. I rebuilt it +.030 so it is now 331 inches. With a contemporary Comp Cams (split duration), 660 cfm carb, Edelbrock dual plane, original dist with MSD 6A, Hooker headers adn under car chambered exhaust, it absolutely rocks. I do have a Tremec TKO 5 speed which helps get it rolling, but it builds RPM remarkably well.
You don't need to spend a lot of money or build a big inch motor. Just build one and tune it well. The destroked 327/302' s do rev like the dickens, but you need 4.11s to get the car rolling. Mine has 3.08's with 331 inches, and starts rolling easy.
This is my 10th Vette, so my point of reference is from really owning and driving (and racing) some very powerful cars. A couple of 435's a 396/425, a 502/502, and one C5.
Don't go too big with a carb, or too large intake runners on heads. Don't go with a long duration cam. All these things kill your bottom end touque.