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Lost My Lope

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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 03:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
That is pretty high, set it at 36 at 3,000 and see how it goes. BTW, what was your total timing reading? Also what is your idle RPM set to? Should be around 900ish RPMs.
Base timing is at 10, rpm's at about 750.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 03:58 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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your base timing is ok and the car would certainly run with that setting, some people like it higher but you are in the range of operating properly for sure.....with the vacuum canister disconnected does it have the idle you want? i don't know any thing about those multi spark units but i could see where that could smooth out things.

the only thing i can think of is that the new HEI unit had the vacuum canister swapped out so that it is pulling in full vacuum advance at a lower " of mercury.....i did this on my engine on purpose.....can you give us the numbers off the vacuum cannister and we can see if someone changed it from stock. these cannisters are about $18 from napa and are easy to swap
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 04:54 PM
  #23  
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Bob, he has an adjustable vacuum can in it so he can set it where he wants.

Not much info availble for an old Viking cam, 100H No. 112061 290 adv. 224@.050 .447 lift, Fair idle amd I think its a 114 LSA with a 109 ICL so it looks like a copy or very similar to a GM "151" cam with good idle at 800 RPM.

Compare that to a more radical 224 @ .050" Comp 270 magnum with 270 degrees advertised.

I'd still set it at 36 @ 3,000 and see how it runs. My "151" has a slight lope to it but I have 10.25:1 and its very noticeable.

Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Jul 3, 2011 at 05:09 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 05:23 PM
  #24  
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When I adjusted the timing curve on mine, it definitely took some lope out of the cam, which I didn't like, but since the timing comes in faster, I like the tradeoff, it's much more responsive and faster now.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
Lets get the actual timing numbers pinned down first and see where he is actually at. Is the 40 degrees at 2,500 RPM with vacuum hooked up or not, is he using full manifold vacuum port for timing or not?
How do you tell if a HEI is a multi spark. Thanks for your help Scott, everything you said today was helpful and made sense. Happy 4TH
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
Bob, he has an adjustable vacuum can in it so he can set it where he wants.
ok i missed that in the first couple of posts.....Scott i am on the same page as you.....i think the advance is coming in earlier now then it did before and the advanced timing is smoothing out the idle.....i wonder if he put the cannistor to ported vacuum if it would give him his lope back?

Last edited by bobs77vet; Jul 3, 2011 at 09:41 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
ok i missed that in the first couple of posts.....Scott i am on the same page as you.....i think the advance is coming in earlier now then it did before and the advanced timing is smoothing out the idle.....i wonder if he put the cannistor to ported vacuum if it would give him his lope back?
Bob, the vacuum is going to the ported vacuum and always has. I think that I'm bringing the advance in too earlier. I'll set it more towards 3000 instead of 2500. Thanks for all the help
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 10:00 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
Verify timing without vacuum at 3,000 to start with, then hook it up and see where it goes at 3,000. This it totally a timing thing. Have you read the Lars timing sticky at the top? By cannister Bob means the vacuum advance can.
If I have an adjustable vacuum can does that take the place of putting in a curve kit, springs and weights?
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by trainor
If I have an adjustable vacuum can does that take the place of putting in a curve kit, springs and weights?

Curve kit, springs and weights affect mechanical advance, vacuum can affects vacuum advance, two separate systems. Do yourself a favor and read this thread, it should get ya headed in the right direction.



http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...long-post.html


Scott
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 10:10 PM
  #30  
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Originally Posted by trainor
If I have an adjustable vacuum can does that take the place of putting in a curve kit, springs and weights?
no....the vacuum cannister brings in vacuum when the vacuum hits a certain level.....it pulls a diaphram and the lever moves and produces advance.....on your unit you probaly can control how much vacuum it takes to pull the advance, but you may not be able to alter the amount of advance pulled in.

there are three types of timing....base. mechanical and vacuum...

and they work sometimes together and sometimes not together....the base is always there and the mechanical caused by weights and springs comes in based on rpm...the weights get thrown out by spinning and the springs slow down the centrifugal force outwards.

the vacuum comes in when there is no load.....so when you stomp on it the vacuum drops and the vacuum advance cuts out....this allows the engine to run on a higher level of advacne under a no load situation like cruising down the highway....while allowing just the right amount under a load situation....clear as mud eh
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 10:10 PM
  #31  
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Nope. Since it has an adjustable can it may already be set up for a faster curve. If you can back off (turn) the distributor so that you are 36 degrees at 3K your weights and springs are fine. The can brings in more advance with vacuum.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 10:16 PM
  #32  
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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i tossed my adjustable cannister and went with a fixed unit, it is possible to hook a mity vac up to the vacuum cannister and to measure exactly what it is doing....this may help in figuring out the puzzle.....i did it with mine then tossed the adjustable one for a fixed one

i would probably like to know exactly how much vaccum advance i was getting

Last edited by bobs77vet; Jul 3, 2011 at 10:18 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2011 | 10:30 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
i tossed my adjustable cannister and went with a fixed unit, it is possible to hook a mity vac up to the vacuum cannister and to measure exactly what it is doing....this may help in figuring out the puzzle.....i did it with mine then tossed the adjustable one for a fixed one

i would probably like to know exactly how much vaccum advance i was getting
If you're at 36* all in, make sure your vacuum advance doesn't pull more than 16* (36 + 16 = 52, doncha know)


Scott
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 09:51 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by trainor
How do you tell if a HEI is a multi spark. Thanks for your help Scott, everything you said today was helpful and made sense. Happy 4TH
Hard to tell, as the technologies been around for awhile, and like many modern electronics, dirt cheap now, so most modules probably have it. Only a few lighter pulses before/after the main spark at low rpm to help with emissions/idle quality, so hard to pick up with a timing light. If a newer module, could be what you've got though.
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