I recently got my 12-bolt differential conversion back from Mike Dyer(tracdogg2). This will be going in my red '67 convertible that I am putting a big block in. I was concerned about the strength of the factory diff so a Tom's was in order. I decided on the 1350 kit because I didn't want to have to cut the fiberglass on this car as you have to do with the 1480 kit that I currently have in my '67 632 car.

Tom recommended the HY-TUFF inner axles and Mike recommended the Billet Flanges.

I went with the following Tom's Differential components:
12V-KIT (12-bolt Corvette Conversion Parts Kit with 4.11 gears)
1350-VAK (1350 Vette Axle Kit with upgrade to HY-TUFF inner axles and Billet Flanges)
C10V-HDRC (H.D. Rear Cover)

Mike supplied his own custom left-side cap. At this point all of the work that Mike has performed is first class. Of course, the real test will be when I take it out to the drag strip.

I have included some pics:






Once I get the motor completed, my plan is to make a few DynoJet runs with the factory 3.70 rearend and then switch to this new 4.11 rearend and make a few more runs to see what the differences are.

Steve

 

Nice build. Any idea how much cutting of the fiberglass is needed for the 1480 kit?

Whats the benefit of the HY-TUFF axles? are they heat cycled/treated? How much extra for the TUFF treatment?

 

Thanks Steve.
I was sure I bolted the rear cover on before I shipped it. LOL.
Give me a call when your ready to make the set-up tool.
Mike

 

On a C3 you have to cut 2 notches about an inch wide. On a C2 get out the sawzall.
Mike

 

Thanks! You do very nice work.

 

Will do. BTW, the plywood shipping box you made is outstanding! I am using it to store/support my Yuasa rotary table and Kurt vise.

Steve

 

Mike answered you on the cutting of the fiberglass. As far as the HY-Tuff axles, they are heat treated. I wish I could remember how much stronger they were than the non-heat treated axles. Tom told me but I didn't write it down. I do remember that it was much stronger and the price was only an additional $136.00.

Steve

 

Looks nice.

Mike, maybe Steve just couldn't resist having a peek inside.

 

I probably would have done the same myself!
The Hy-tuff axles are made fom 4340 steel instead of 1541.
Mike

 

Sweeettt!!!

Another killer Mikey build!

Steve...I haven't called in a while...I'm almost scared to ask what's in store for the convertible!!

But it's going to be a fun ride I bet! I mean it ran 11's with that little *stock* smalblock using cast iron manifolds!

JIM

 

Between Tom's and Mike, they have done a nice job. I still can't get over the concept of "tuning" a posi.

Steve

 

Hey thanks Jim. I am going to be running a *stock* big block this time and also going with cast iron exhaust manifolds. To say that things are taking forever on this deal is an understatement.

I'm hoping that it will all be worth it when it is finished!

Steve

 

Very nice eye candy there Steve. I never met Mike Dyer but he seems like one hell of a guy, helped me set up my posi over the phone. Yeah, that little 383 was a good running motor, can't wait to see the big block conversion.

I like the billet flanges for the half shafts too, does Mike have those?

 

Thanks, Scott. The 383 is now sitting on the sidelines. I'm not sure whether to sell it or not. Just a phenomenal running motor.

Mike is indeed one hell of a nice guy. Very helpful and an honest individual. There are not many people you can say that about now days.

Mike got those billet flanges from Tom's.

Steve

 

Can't go wrong on a Tracdogg IRS.....

I pound on mine every time I drive it on, drag radials stay on the car 100% of the time....Its still quiet as can be...... I have atleast 20 mid to high 6 sec 1/8 passes on (low 1.50 60's) and she's still kickin.... and mine is still a 10 bolt....

I also aligned my rear end using Tracdogg's "string" method..... my car hooks hard and goes straight as an arrow....

That ole boy knows his ****!

 

BTW Steve I can't WAIT to see what you have up your sleeve.... I always love sleeper builds and I KNOW yours is gonna be something special... 10s through stock manifolds?

 

Alan, I have you to thank for making me aware of Mike. Prior to your thread about your Super 10 build, I didn't know anything about him. So, thanks!

Steve

 

It is an interesting project. It's challenging when you're trying to make something *stock*(Jim's description) appearing that is not.

My goal is simply to make the engine compartment look as close to 100% stock as possible (when viewed from standing next to the car). I even want it to sound stock. I'm hoping the cam I selected will allow this.

As far as 10's through stock manifolds, that is indeed the goal. Based on your experience what kind of rwhp numbers will I need to attain this? The trans is a TKO-600. I have a set of M/T 255/60x15 DOT Street Radials for the car. I believe that is what you are using.

Steve

 

I am not sure how much RWHP you would need since it is a stick car....I am normally only saavy on auto tranny with good converter stats but..... Typically stick cars run better MPH and show more RWHP yet ET considerably worse then a good auto tranny and converter...

Shooting off of the cuff, I would say you would need 500rwhp at a minimum with a stick and thats gonna have to be leaving real well.....

Not a good comparison but.... my 99 Trans Am M6 that weighed 3800lbs with me in it ran 11.30s@125 at 545rwhp...BUT that was only with 1.75 60's and crappy 5.00 330's.... I feel it would have ran 10.90s on 6k clutch dumps IF it didnt bog or blow up but....I never tried it... That same car with an auto and a good converter would have ran 11.30s on motor and probably 10.30s on spray...

Seeing as how you were running 11.80s with 400 rwhp on the small block, add another 100hp and you "should" be in the high 10s....

 

Thanks Alan. Just looking to tap some of your experience.