Ignition Switch Problem
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 676
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From: Usa
Ignition Switch Problem
I am having problem with my ignition switch, if I don't push in on the switch while turning it from the off position to the start position the ignition switch pops out slightly & doesn't engage the starter. Anyone experience this problem?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 111
From: Saginaw Michigan
First of all, you are having a problem with the ignition lock cylinder. The lock cylinder connects to the actual ignition switch which is mounted on top of the steering column jacket down under the dash. The lock cylinder engages a small plastic sector gear. The gear engages a die cast rack that pushes and pulls on a rod that connects to the ignition switch.
You should have to push in on the key and the chrome bezel to go from OFF-LOCK to ACCESSORY. Not from OFF to RUN to START. Sounds like you require a new lock cylinder. (BTW, they are all the same, 1969 through 1978.)
Jim
You should have to push in on the key and the chrome bezel to go from OFF-LOCK to ACCESSORY. Not from OFF to RUN to START. Sounds like you require a new lock cylinder. (BTW, they are all the same, 1969 through 1978.)
Jim
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 676
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From: Usa
First of all, you are having a problem with the ignition lock cylinder. The lock cylinder connects to the actual ignition switch which is mounted on top of the steering column jacket down under the dash. The lock cylinder engages a small plastic sector gear. The gear engages a die cast rack that pushes and pulls on a rod that connects to the ignition switch.
You should have to push in on the key and the chrome bezel to go from OFF-LOCK to ACCESSORY. Not from OFF to RUN to START. Sounds like you require a new lock cylinder. (BTW, they are all the same, 1969 through 1978.)
Jim
You should have to push in on the key and the chrome bezel to go from OFF-LOCK to ACCESSORY. Not from OFF to RUN to START. Sounds like you require a new lock cylinder. (BTW, they are all the same, 1969 through 1978.)
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 111
From: Saginaw Michigan
As you probably know, there is a slight amount of motion that is needed to compress the ignition key and chrome wings relative to the lock cylinder body in order to be able to reach the ACCESSORY position. So I assume that it isn't this movement that you need to compress in order to go from OFF, RUN, and START.
So I have a question: Is it the whole lock cylinder that has to be "pushed-in" in order to go from OFF to START? Can you just pull the lock cylinder out of the column head? I'm wondering if you might have damaged the retainer slot in the column head as you were trying to release the original lock cylinder. Does that allow the lock cylinder to "back-off" enough to lose engagement with the plastic sector unless you depress the whole lock cylinder.
Jim
So I have a question: Is it the whole lock cylinder that has to be "pushed-in" in order to go from OFF to START? Can you just pull the lock cylinder out of the column head? I'm wondering if you might have damaged the retainer slot in the column head as you were trying to release the original lock cylinder. Does that allow the lock cylinder to "back-off" enough to lose engagement with the plastic sector unless you depress the whole lock cylinder.
Jim
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 676
Likes: 36
From: Usa
As you probably know, there is a slight amount of motion that is needed to compress the ignition key and chrome wings relative to the lock cylinder body in order to be able to reach the ACCESSORY position. So I assume that it isn't this movement that you need to compress in order to go from OFF, RUN, and START.
So I have a question: Is it the whole lock cylinder that has to be "pushed-in" in order to go from OFF to START? Can you just pull the lock cylinder out of the column head? I'm wondering if you might have damaged the retainer slot in the column head as you were trying to release the original lock cylinder. Does that allow the lock cylinder to "back-off" enough to lose engagement with the plastic sector unless you depress the whole lock cylinder.
Jim
So I have a question: Is it the whole lock cylinder that has to be "pushed-in" in order to go from OFF to START? Can you just pull the lock cylinder out of the column head? I'm wondering if you might have damaged the retainer slot in the column head as you were trying to release the original lock cylinder. Does that allow the lock cylinder to "back-off" enough to lose engagement with the plastic sector unless you depress the whole lock cylinder.
Jim
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 676
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From: Usa
Calling Jim Shea
Jim yes the lock cylinder itself must be depressed when going from lock to start in order for the starter to engage. If I do not depress the lock cylinder it kicks out slightly when I turn it toward the start position. Therefore I think your theory may be correct & the retainer slot may have been damaged. If this is the case how do I repair this?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 111
From: Saginaw Michigan
I searched through your thread and cannot find the year of your Corvette (unless it is a 1973.) Also if it is a standard column or a T&T?
If the housing is damaged the unfortunate part is that the 1969-76 T&T housings are very rare. Here is one tip, the Cadillacs, Oldsmobiles, and Buicks that had T&T columns in that same time frame (round head columns not the ones with the dimmer pivot bulge on the turn signal lever side of the column head) used the same housing.
I assume that if you have a standard column, the housing will be equally hard to find.
You might call the following companies:
http://www.corvettesteering.com/corvette%20parts.htm
http://www.gmtiltsteeringcolumn.com/services.html
http://www.columnsgalore.com/index.htm
If the housing is damaged the unfortunate part is that the 1969-76 T&T housings are very rare. Here is one tip, the Cadillacs, Oldsmobiles, and Buicks that had T&T columns in that same time frame (round head columns not the ones with the dimmer pivot bulge on the turn signal lever side of the column head) used the same housing.
I assume that if you have a standard column, the housing will be equally hard to find.
You might call the following companies:
http://www.corvettesteering.com/corvette%20parts.htm
http://www.gmtiltsteeringcolumn.com/services.html
http://www.columnsgalore.com/index.htm
