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Sorry but I would have to disagree on the last sentence statement, 1964 Bonneville 389 were adjustable fwiw Ed
I didn't intend to imply All engines.
If it came with non bottled necked studs then you adjusted them like a chevy. A lot of HI PO engines in all lines were adjustable.
I didn't intend to imply All engines.
If it came with non bottled necked studs then you adjusted them like a chevy. A lot of HI PO engines in all lines were adjustable.
Just a quick question for you guys - I read in the Chilton Repair Manual that you tighten the rocker a 3/4 turn after finding 0 lash, supposedly to "center" the valve. Most of those commenting on this post have mentioned a 1/2 turn.
Comments? I just put new lifters and pushrods in my '74 last week (haven't put the intake or valve covers on yet). So, should I go back and loosen them a 1/4 turn, or will they be ok as is?
Just a quick question for you guys - I read in the Chilton Repair Manual that you tighten the rocker a 3/4 turn after finding 0 lash, supposedly to "center" the valve. Most of those commenting on this post have mentioned a 1/2 turn.
Comments? I just put new lifters and pushrods in my '74 last week (haven't put the intake or valve covers on yet). So, should I go back and loosen them a 1/4 turn, or will they be ok as is?
Thanks,
The Jester
As long as the preload on the lifter puts the plunger between the bottom of the lifter body and the upper retaining clip you are fine.
Whether you use 1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 turn the operation will be the same.
The only time that more preload can be a problem is when you get into valve float situations. Then the lifter takes up the slack in the valve train and the valves will no longer seat until the lifter has time to bleed down a bit.
Thanks everyone for the helpful information. I finished adjusting the valves on Friday and had the Vette out a couple of times over the weekend…no bent pushrods so I guess I didn’t mess anything up.