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Is there a website out there that shows how to do your own REAR alignments at home? I'm having a problem finding someone who can do this on their machine.
I dropped the car off yesterday to get an alignment. They called this morning and were very honest to say they didn't know how to do it. They said it was probably better to get it done elsewhere than to take a chance on them not getting it right. I was impressed by their honesty - most would have done it anyway and released the car with a bad alignment. They've always done a good job for me.
So... I need to give it a go at home if it is possible.
Thanks!
Barry, I am interested in doing this also. I just finished rebuilding the rear suspension in my 74 and would like to be able to align it myself. Could you post it here or drop me an e-mail.
Thanks
Michael
No, that URL is a different thing. What Barry sent me was a text article on how to do the alignment and is very detailed. While I'm sure he wouldn't mind, I'll let Barry email it to you as I didn't ask permission to share it.
When he spots your posts I'm sure you will hear from him!
I can tell you that it is not a pleasant job. I did mine with a friend that owns an allignment shop and it took us about 6 hours on a machine. the hardest part is the rear shims even with it on a lift much less on the ground :eek: but I have to confess that this allignment had to be done after a full frame off and complete new suspension so my case was an extreme. when we started there were no shims at all on the car front or rear... good luck :cheers:
Barry- Thanks for the info!
Like 71 Droptop I am starting from scratch, I had the entire rear suspension apart and even though I saved the old shims, they were rusted badly. This project started out being a weekend project to put in the new urethane bushings. It turned into new bushings, wheel bearings, a new spring, and hours and hours of cleaning and painting.
I just received the laser level I ordered from Technoscout this p.m. This thing not only shoots out a spot, but it shoots out a LINE. That means I can put it against the rear wheel and project towards the front (onto the frame of an caster/camber gauge in my case). The line makes it easy to read. I can tell already that I have to shim my rear trailing arms over about an 1/8" to line-up rear wheels to front wheels. BTW, 1/8" at the trailing arms is about .7 inches at the front wheel! (This assumes a 98" wheelbase and 17.5" between T/A pivot and c/l of rear wheels. I haven't quite nailed down the entire procedure yet (see Norval's description in the linked post) but it's starting to come together.
I have access to an alignement machine and I did mine yesterday. Previously, I've done one at home because I couldn't do it on the machine for a week. The one thing that I've noticed is that your car have to be exactly leveled to do a right job with the camber. The toe won't be that off if you aren't. I did my camber adjustement with a camber level but my driveway is leaning to one side. So after adjustement, I got to a gas station with a concrete slab to check it out and it was fine. After checking it with the machine, I was off by one degree at the camber for the two wheels like that // on the rear wheel. The toe was almost good.
Good point. The caster/camber gauge I use (Pole Position Products) allows me to "zero" out the level on the same surface that the car is on i.e. it can compensate if the car is not perfectly level and reads camber with respect to the "set" angle.
This isn't as good as having a perfectly level surface but I think it can get it pretty close.