Upper 2 Booster Bolts... Help...
Thread Starter
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Upper 2 Booster Bolts... Help...
I've seen a couple of threads about these two nuts and I had a question. I'm doing a power brake swap and these nuts are just about impossible to get to... Especially the top left above the clutch.
Can you get to them by removing the gauges? Or some other trick that doesn't involve disassembling the whole dash?
A few guys said that removing the steering column helps but it seems kind of overkill to put all that effort for installing 2 nuts.
Can you get to them by removing the gauges? Or some other trick that doesn't involve disassembling the whole dash?
A few guys said that removing the steering column helps but it seems kind of overkill to put all that effort for installing 2 nuts.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 945
Likes: 10
From: Winston Salem NC
It's tough. Removing the gauge bezel assy will help.
That nut can be reached with a long extension and a deep socket. It is tricky though. You will need light to see it and maybe a small magnetic parts picker-upper to guide/hold the socket. Plus you will have to remove the clutch rotary switch (forgot exact name). To reach it.
Removing the seat helps. You should remove the steering column. It will be difficult to get that pedal assy around the column and the thick steel plate attached to it.
Take some deep breaths and go for it.
I wish I had replaced the firewall/booster gasket when I had mine apart.
That nut can be reached with a long extension and a deep socket. It is tricky though. You will need light to see it and maybe a small magnetic parts picker-upper to guide/hold the socket. Plus you will have to remove the clutch rotary switch (forgot exact name). To reach it.
Removing the seat helps. You should remove the steering column. It will be difficult to get that pedal assy around the column and the thick steel plate attached to it.
Take some deep breaths and go for it.
I wish I had replaced the firewall/booster gasket when I had mine apart.
Instructor
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
Socket with extension and swivel/"squigly" worked for me...and wrap some electrical tape on the swivel to hold it straight while engaging the nut. Then, attach a cordless driver/drill to the extension and rip it.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Easiest way to r&r power booster is to jack front of car up slightly and kneel beside the car to reach inside. No need to get inside at all. Remove the lower a/c duct under the column, then remove the clip for the rod pin (worst part), then remove pin.
Make up a 9/16" deep socket, then swivel, then 2 foot of extension, then ratchet handle, all 3/8" drive. Reach under to fit socket on nuts and unscrew. Your ratchet handle will end up between the seat and the lower dash. No need to even see the nuts.
Can be down in about 10 minutes.
Make up a 9/16" deep socket, then swivel, then 2 foot of extension, then ratchet handle, all 3/8" drive. Reach under to fit socket on nuts and unscrew. Your ratchet handle will end up between the seat and the lower dash. No need to even see the nuts.
Can be down in about 10 minutes.
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Just finished the same swap. It can be done although I removed the driver's seat, steering column (not that bad), and the steering column support bracket under the dash. Be prepared for a couple of additional things, though. If you have a 4-speed, the height of your brake pedal will be considerably lower using the new rod and old clevis. Second, you'll need a vacuum source from the carb or intake manifold.
Be patient and take your time. The swap is definitely worth it in my opinion (I left my brake pedal height low and I like that, too).
Be patient and take your time. The swap is definitely worth it in my opinion (I left my brake pedal height low and I like that, too).
