does the disc in come off easily? i tried to get it out but just managed to RIP :mad my finger nail right off my finger!!! :U .....not pleasant!! anyways, do they just pull off or do i have to bang on it until i rip and other nail off :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

please advice
Rod :cool:

 

there usally riveted on you have to drill out the rivets first.

 

even in the 80 vette

rOD :cool:

 

Yep, they're riveted (sp.?) on. You will need to drill out the rivets, but you should mark where the rotor goes on the spindle so that you put it back on in the same spot it came off of. That will help to prevent excessive rotor runout.

 

hmmm...where are the rivets?? i see none!!! :confused: :confused: :confused:

 

They are very large, 5 of them. A pain to drill out as I remember....

 

no, i have none......all i see is that studs!!1


Rod :cool:

 

If your rivits are already gone, the emergency brake shoes need to be adjusted in a tad - you're adjusting the wrong direction if the rotor locks up - then spray the hub with PB Blaster to ease the rust weld that builds over time, then get a BFH and prang on it a few times. If that fails, you'll need a large three jaw puller for a little extra persuasion. If you have to use a puller, make sure you place a box or something below the rotor as they tend to let loose all at once and drop on your toe tearing off a toenail. :eek:

 

what do the rivets look like......are they round looking discs thingies??
here are some pics ...you tell me





Rod :cool:

 

Yes, you still have the rivets. They are the "round things" between the wheel studs. I don't remember the exact drill size you need, but you need a good drill and bit so it doesn't take forever.
Good luck.

 

yep, them are it. Time to whip out the drill and goto work. :) But as someone said, be sure you mark 'em off so you can reassemble them back the same way.
good luck!
-terry

 

yep, the disc looking "thingies" are the head of the rivet , the actual rivet body is much smaller in diameter so dont go overboard on the drill size, drill the head off the rivet and you might be able to knock the **** outta the rivet enough to sneak the rotor off :rolleyes: good luck, its an experience you wont soon forget :yesnod: , peace to ya,,,,,,,peace,, Moosie

 

Great, now i don't wanna do it....... :D .... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: .....just listning to you guys makes me wanna :U . with dread

Rod :cool:

 

Don't get intimidated by it. Just get a drill bit that is about half the size of the rivet, maybe a little smaller and drill it in. Just keep at it and go until you drill through...if it still doesnt come loose, go with a bigger bit a drill more, should be easier since there is already a hole it. It's not all that hard. Just go for it! :seeya

 

so what are the implications after i take it off?? will the rotor go back with out the rivets?? all i wannna do is clean the in behind the rotor..........so mark the wheel studs to avoid problems with fit and once i'm done just replace the rotor. do i have it right??? :confused: ....dread again :U

Rod :cool:

 

I read somewhere on the forum before that you don't need to replaced the rivets...the floating rotor should work fine. But it's no big deal to replace them either.

 

Use a punch to put a dot on the rotor, and a dot on the spindle flange.
These marks allows you to put the rotor back on exactly where it came from.
The spindle & rotor were machined as a "unit" by GM to minimize runout.
Runout causes spongy brakes due to "air pumping" at the caliper, so you want the rotor to go back on exactly where GM originally installed it.

Get two NEW good drill bits (for example, cobalt coated)... one smaller than 11/32 and one 11/32.
The rivet hole size is 11/32.
Center punch the rivets exactly on center to make sure you don't drill off-center.
You want to avoid drilling the rotor as much as possible.
Drill the center of each rivet with the smaller bit until the tip of the bit goes just below the rotor face.
Using a smaller bit gives you some leeway to avoid hitting the rotor.
Then drill with the 11/32 up to the rotor face.
If the head does not pop off, then hit it with a 3/8 drill bit.

The more you weaken the rivets, the easier they will tap out of the spindle after you remove the rotor.
Drilling all the way through them initially, will help a lot in punching them through in the end, but you don't have to drill all the way through to remove the rotors.
If you wail on the spindle to get the rivets out, you can damage the spindle bearings... same with wailing on the rotor with a hammer to get the rotor off.

When I was taught how to use a drum & rotor turning machine 25 years ago, they taught me not to pound excessively on any drum or rotor because it can cause the part to warp. I can't verify this, but it is part of the "knowledge base" that was handed down to me.

As posted, the parking brake is probably hanging you up as well.... adjusting the star adjuster (through the hole) down should tighten the brake, adjusting it up should release the brake shoes.

I just did an 80, and one star adjuster was rusted so bad that I had to heat it up through the hole with an oxy-acytelene torch until it was cherry red, and it still was hard to turn.

First try to get the rotors off without messing with the brake adjustment.... it creates more unnecessary work if the rotors will come off without fooling with the parking brake.

Once you remove the rivets, they do not have to be relpaced. The lug nuts hold the rotor tight. The caliper & pads also restrain it... you can't remove the rotor without first removing the caliper.

The parking brake preliminary adjustment is made through the holes in the rotor.... they must line up with the holes in the spindle to allow the adjustment. Just line up your "dots" (per above) and you will be fine on the re-install.

Tom

 

thanks Tom!! :cheers:

Rod :cool:

 

Tom covered the procredure well. Make sure you mark the position and don't bank the hell out of the rotor trying to get them off. You can damage the EB's and knock the bearings for the spindle out of spec and have terrible runout. Too much runout on the rears for any reason will "pulse" the calipers and suck in air and you will never have decent brakes.

BTW were those pics of your rotors that were seriously rusted?