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Replacing calipers...how long should it take?
#21
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Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Drummonds TN
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Thanks a lot guys. Very good information. I enjoy working at the hobby shop on base (Millington TN) as there is always somebody to talk to etc. Yes, John, I have made a few messes myself....but I have learned from them.
#23
Oh that was me, I was at NCTAMS up in Wahiawa near scholfield and wheeler army airfield.. bgall2 if ur just in TN u should go up to bowling green on a long weekend! I'm in ohio right now @ a ROTC unit. When my vette is done this fall I'm deffinatly taking a trip to check out the museum and factory.
#24
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Replaced rear calipers with no problems and only did a gravity bleed when finished. Brakes hard as a rock now. Did not do fronts as I have decided to replace the hard lines on front due to rounded nuts etc. Was very happy with the job and all the suggestions helped a great deal.
Bob
PS. I will gravity bleed my brakes every time from here on out. worked great and did not take long at all.
Bob
PS. I will gravity bleed my brakes every time from here on out. worked great and did not take long at all.
#25
Racer
Since your replacing all four calipers, I suggest you gravity bleed them first when your done with each. To do this, make sure the master cylinder is full, open the bleeders (2 on each caliper) and wait untill you get brake fluid coming out of them. As you see fluid coming out of each bleeder, close it. It's important to make sure the master cylinder stays full, otherwise you'll be pulling air back into the system. Once you've gotten brake fluid out of and closed each bleeder of all four calipers, you can use a pressure bleeder or the "pump and hold" method to finish it off. Start with the inside bleeder on the rear right, then the outside bleeder, then the left rear, right front and left front caliper.
As for the goop, I put it on and it didn't do anything. The rear brakes squeak when cruising at slow speeds and the the front brakes whine when I apply a little pressure for a gradual stop. That's probably the twisting motion someone else mentioned on this thread. I guess I'm spending some time this weekend wiping that gunk off.
You will have to disconnect the metal line on the rear caliper. Mine were siezed up and I used a hack saw to cut them off . New ones are pretty cheap.
#26
Drifting
If you chamfer the leading and trailing edges of the pads at a 45° angle you will eliminate most if not all brake squeak! Even the factory does it now. Here is a photo of my ZO6 brake padlets (4 of 6 in the front caliper). I have done the same to my '69 pads with good results.
No need for any goop this way.
Pete
No need for any goop this way.
Pete
#27
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Hey Guys...replaced the rear calipers using all the recommendations you all made and it went very well. Let me say that I changed them out in order they should be bled...I gravity bled the right while taking off the left...closed it after good flows from each bleeder and repeated on the left. The problem was with the left caliper as it was leaking. Did not replace fronts as nuts were rounded off and I need new brake lines which I have now received. However, I did gravity bleed the fronts as well while wheels off. Have never had such a hard peddle since I have owned the car and I did not pump the brakes a single time to bleed. I will change out the front this Saturday...I hope.
Bob
Bob
#28
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
I've done this for many years on all my cars and have never had problem. I usually take about a cup from each caliper when I do the job. The replacement fluid comes out by then. If you have the time, it's the only way to go.
#29
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Oh that was me, I was at NCTAMS up in Wahiawa near scholfield and wheeler army airfield.. bgall2 if ur just in TN u should go up to bowling green on a long weekend! I'm in ohio right now @ a ROTC unit. When my vette is done this fall I'm deffinatly taking a trip to check out the museum and factory.