New engine in 76, high temperatures
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,717
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From: Sulphur LA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
I've noticed that some of the Ford Taurus radiator fans that can be purchased brand new have a corner that is beveled. Are these versions of the fan okay to purchase or do I need to look for a completely square fan assembly? I'm just curious if it matters one way or the other.
Beveled assembly:
Square assembly:
Beveled assembly:
Square assembly:
Instructor
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 197
Likes: 4
From: Rochester New York
I'd bet that would be OK, but it's always better for the shroud to cover the entire core.
I just looked that part up, it's only 13 inches around, I don't think that will be nearly big enough. You will also have to power it up somehow. If you use a dash switch you have to remember to turn it on and off. If you use an automatic thermo switch you will have to set up a relay and style up a/the therostat housing or rad. receiver tank. No real big deal but 'you' will need to be handy.
Anyway, the link to the articl that 'Thatcorvetteguy' posted is very good reading and just might get you thinking straight about the issue... failing that, you can use the thermostatic switch from a C4 to control the retro-fit. All the auto parts biggies have generic fan units. But the article above makes great sense and what the factory makes should work if you set it up properly. Hell, there are plenty of Rat (Big Block) motors in C3's that run all day with the factory stuff.
I just looked that part up, it's only 13 inches around, I don't think that will be nearly big enough. You will also have to power it up somehow. If you use a dash switch you have to remember to turn it on and off. If you use an automatic thermo switch you will have to set up a relay and style up a/the therostat housing or rad. receiver tank. No real big deal but 'you' will need to be handy.
Anyway, the link to the articl that 'Thatcorvetteguy' posted is very good reading and just might get you thinking straight about the issue... failing that, you can use the thermostatic switch from a C4 to control the retro-fit. All the auto parts biggies have generic fan units. But the article above makes great sense and what the factory makes should work if you set it up properly. Hell, there are plenty of Rat (Big Block) motors in C3's that run all day with the factory stuff.
Last edited by ThePabst; Jul 29, 2011 at 11:26 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 57
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From: Iowa
Yeah, it looks like the part that has the beveled edge is for the 3.0L engine and not the 3.8L Taurus / Sable engine. I'll order the one from the 3.8L engine that is completely square. It has the 16" fan.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Iowa
The cooling problem has been fixed. I thought I'd post a follow up.
After adding a bypass hose, the temperatures immediately dropped to 220* and did not go past that. Excess pressure buildup also stopped. I also noticed I was missing the front lower air dam and decided to replace it. I then installed the electric Ford Taurus radiator fan. Temperatures on a 90* day on the highway and in town did not exceed 195* after installation of these parts.
For good measure, I also put a new spring in the lower radiator hose.
I'd also like to note that the Taurus fan fits very well. It covers about 80% of the radiator and looks like it could be a stock part. The low speed flows plenty of air.
Thank you everyone for your recommendations!
After adding a bypass hose, the temperatures immediately dropped to 220* and did not go past that. Excess pressure buildup also stopped. I also noticed I was missing the front lower air dam and decided to replace it. I then installed the electric Ford Taurus radiator fan. Temperatures on a 90* day on the highway and in town did not exceed 195* after installation of these parts.
For good measure, I also put a new spring in the lower radiator hose.
I'd also like to note that the Taurus fan fits very well. It covers about 80% of the radiator and looks like it could be a stock part. The low speed flows plenty of air.
Thank you everyone for your recommendations!
Instructor
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 197
Likes: 4
From: Rochester New York
Very cool... LOL!! Glad it worked out, I may do the same for mine this winter. I am removing the A/C and selling it. Mine blew the heater core this summer so that needs to be replaced. My A/C is a chronic problem and I always have to work on it. It's frustrating, now the plenum is stuck and I get hot air at the vents... not so great in the summer heat. I am going to remove all the vacuum stuff and figure out a way to install a cable/manual control from a Nova. My Silver Annie is a daily driver and the 'enviromental' is totaled.
Hey; Did you eliminate the shroud? Did you re-install the thermostat?
Hey; Did you eliminate the shroud? Did you re-install the thermostat?
Last edited by ThePabst; Aug 15, 2011 at 10:35 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 57
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From: Iowa
The original shroud is no longer in the car. I'm only using what the Taurus fan came with. I noticed that early '76 shrouds are running $1200-$1400 on the vendor websites, so I'll probably put it up on eBay and get a fair amount out of it.
The thermostat has never been removed from the car. I think someone may have recommended this, but it's never a good idea to run without one. A 180* T-stat is currently installed.
The thermostat has never been removed from the car. I think someone may have recommended this, but it's never a good idea to run without one. A 180* T-stat is currently installed.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 691
Likes: 25
From: Boynton Beach Florida
Your right on not running a thermostat but after having a few 160's stick and open really late (strangest thing I've ever seen) I went with the old tried and true restrictor plates that Mr. Gasket and Moroso make. Luckily in a year round warm environment I don't need the warm up time guys in the north need and I can control the flow of water just the same.
Glad you got things cooled down and can enjoy your new engine.
Glad you got things cooled down and can enjoy your new engine.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,223
Likes: 4
From: Regina Saskatchewan
I've run vortec heads for about 4 years. This year I decided to cut some heat out of the cabin and put some shutoff valves on the heater hose. Temps would rise from 180 to 260 then back to 180. Up and down. I changed out the thermostat 5Xs ! Nope. Changed out the rad hoses thinking maybe one of them was collapsing. Nope. Built a bypass just before the 2 shut off valves and steady at 180 ! I asked about this on this forum and no one seemed to know why. I asked my local speed shop guy. Never heard of it. Hot Rod buddies. Nodda. Maybe there is no bypass on the peticular vortec heads I have. I see BKBroiler isn't having this problem - but I sure do. I have to have a bypass.
Last edited by couperdecar; Aug 16, 2011 at 02:03 AM.
