AND Phewwwww , those boxes are not cheap.
71 LT-1 Won't Start?????
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 8
From: Illinois
I'm back. As I said car started right up--took it out for a short run--ran great. Let it run for a while.
Changed oil the next day and tried to start it wouldn't start again--what gives. Pulled a plug and the spark is now very strong but I smell gas.
I fixed it so the choke couldn't close and waited 12 hours and still wouldn't start.I think I eliminated electrical system--can't check timing because it's not running and it ran great when started. Must be carb--as I said just rebuilt--I have the gas screws turned back in the 1 full turn. Any thoughts??????????
:ee k:
Changed oil the next day and tried to start it wouldn't start again--what gives. Pulled a plug and the spark is now very strong but I smell gas.
I fixed it so the choke couldn't close and waited 12 hours and still wouldn't start.I think I eliminated electrical system--can't check timing because it's not running and it ran great when started. Must be carb--as I said just rebuilt--I have the gas screws turned back in the 1 full turn. Any thoughts??????????
:ee k:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Sure you can 
- Remove #1 spark plug and coil wire (or ignition system power)
- Place finger over #1 plug hole, have someone "bump" the engine.
- When you feel pressure, you're coming up on compression stroke #1
- Position the engine manually to around 12 degrees BTCD using the harmonic balancer mark and timing pointer.
- Rotate the distributor such that the rotor is pointing directly at the #1 post.
Last edited by billla; Aug 5, 2011 at 10:26 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 8
From: Illinois
When I open the butterflies and clean the gas out and completely close the jets--its starts for just a second and then dies. Any suggestions. Obviously something in the carb not the ignition.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
Make sure the carb float bowl is full of fuel by filling it through the vent tube, try starting the Vette and seeing if it will run a while (filling the front float bowl should get you 10-20 seconds of running time before the bowl empties out.) I think your problem is still ignition related, usually fuel problems are after some long drama such as "blubbering" where an instant kill is usually electrical in nature.
Hook up a voltmeter to the pink wire from the ignition switch to the TI harness (by the firewall) and see if your losing your 12VDC power from the ignition switch when you go from cranking to run position on the ignition switch (ignition switch may be failing.) There is a slight possibilty that the distributor reluctor coil (inside the magnet) is grounding on the distributor housing or opening while being subjected to the vibration of running (Chevy had a bad run on K-66 distributors that were grounding the coil leads to the housing on the mounting plate back in the 70's.) There is also the potential for the coil wiring to go to ground on the radio shielding if the coil isn't positioned correctly. Check all the wiring harness connections and let us know how things are progressing.
Hook up a voltmeter to the pink wire from the ignition switch to the TI harness (by the firewall) and see if your losing your 12VDC power from the ignition switch when you go from cranking to run position on the ignition switch (ignition switch may be failing.) There is a slight possibilty that the distributor reluctor coil (inside the magnet) is grounding on the distributor housing or opening while being subjected to the vibration of running (Chevy had a bad run on K-66 distributors that were grounding the coil leads to the housing on the mounting plate back in the 70's.) There is also the potential for the coil wiring to go to ground on the radio shielding if the coil isn't positioned correctly. Check all the wiring harness connections and let us know how things are progressing.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 8
From: Illinois
I agree and think it is the ignition system since it is intermittent. Those are the hardest ones to diagnose==intermittent problems.
Did wonder about the coil shorting to the radio shielding and removed the shielding--still wouldn't start--but good thinking.
I also wondered about the 12 volts during starting and then not 9 v. during running but didn't know how to check that. I will try again this am.
Did wonder about the coil shorting to the radio shielding and removed the shielding--still wouldn't start--but good thinking.
I also wondered about the 12 volts during starting and then not 9 v. during running but didn't know how to check that. I will try again this am.
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Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I agree with Solid, but Paul make sure if your car has been sitting outside during the several months you haven't started it,that you don't have water in the bottom of your tank. C3s that sit out are very bad for water in the tank and I've seen more than 1 guy chase his tail due to this. 
