I am currently looking to purchase a 1969 corvette from a local guy. It has a modifed 350 smal-block. In th interest of being a savvy shopper I asked around to see if there were common problem-areas or thing to watch out for on these vettes. Several poeple "in the know" have said that the rear suspension and bearings can go bad and cost like $1500 to fix. However no one could tell me the hows and whys of this clamity. Where in the rear are these bearings, what causes them to go bad and what is the weak link in the rear suspension set-up.

thanks a bunch :cheers: :hat

 

I would pay special attention to the frame in front of the rear tires. I would look at the rear end to see if the half shafts are rubbing into the housing, a common condition if the rear end is sagging or the alienment is out.

 

Another thing to look for is to make sure the lower strut rods are still straight. Many bubba type mechanics heat and bend them so they can acheive the alignment specs. This is an obvious sign of a worn diff, mainly the side yokes.


[Modified by Stingy74, 8:55 PM 4/27/2002]

 

I suspect what these folks are talking about the cost of removing the trailing arms/bearing assemblies and rebuilding them. The bearings aren't serviceable in the sense that you can take them out and repack them, so they will eventually eat themselves. Probably would cost $1500 to have someone else do them. But you can buy already rebuilt for under $800 & it's not all that hard to take 'em off and put 'em back on.

JB

 

I have owned seven C-3's (68-82) over the years and only had to do rear bearings ONCE. That was on a car I owned for fourteen years. Not too bad I'd say. :cool:

 

If you're asking what is inherently wrong with the rear end that causes this problem, the 69 you are looking at is approaching 34 years of age. That's a real long time in car years. :yesnod: Especially for a strong motored car that was run hard a time or two. :cheers:

 

I agree with redwingvette... check the frame first.

I notice you are in Pilly... both of my Vettes are from PA... one from Montrose, and the other from Donegal.
Both have rust issues.
I am currently working on a 3rd that is also from PA... and it also has rust issues.
People tend to conceal the rust problem from potential buyers to get rid of the car.
I worked on a car that is originally from NC, and is still here in NC... and it has absolutely no frame rust.
Major difference in frame condition, depending on where the car spent the last 34 years.
The salt eats the frame from the inside out... so a little rust-through spot on the outside means major cancer on the inside.
This rust condition also prevents a mechanic from removing the rear swing arms, or "trailing arms". The forward pivot bolt becomes so rusted to the inner sleeve of the arm bushing, that it takes tremendous force to remove it, and due to its location, such force cannot be applied. So... you end up cutting the arms out, and the job becomes a nightmare.... and this affects the cost of the job.

The rear diff was one of the early IRS cars... had independent rear suspension when most other cars had a solid rear axle. Because the design is "different", most run-of-the-mill mechanics never get to work on one, and it takes both special tools & special skills to tackle the job. It also takes "experience" to look at one and diagnose the ills properly. You have to understand how it works in order to diagnose it properly. I have seen people do a "wheel wiggle" test at the 12/6 o'clock position and mis-diagnose yoke end wear for excessive wheel bearing end play.

If not maintained properly, the loose parts ultimately do damage to the components such as the yokes wearing into the differential case (as posted above), and the wheel bearings inner race welding themselves to the spindle.

This is why you hear the warnings. The bearing & diff work can be performed by a competent mechanic.
A rusted frame can be repaired as well, but *MOST* knowledgeable Vette people stand back from frame problems because frame repair very often will push the initial cost plus cost of repairing the car well beyond its current market value.

Look at the area in front of the rear tires... you have to look at it from underneath as well as from the side.
Look for any signs of rust-through... holes that were not drilled by the factory.
A little scale rust is not a problem... but if it is coming off in big flakes or chunks... NFG.

Experienced Corvette "cheats" will fill in the holes with bondo & paint over it.
Check the whole area with a magnet regardless... it's not hard to fill with bondo, paint, and put dirt on the paint to conceal the con-job.
Saw this in Syracuse NY all of the time... I worked as a "professional" mechanic.

Tom

 

What they said!
BTW, '69's are no better nor worse than anyother Vette as far as rear wheel bearings go....