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I have a 1979 L48 vette with some mods (different cam/carb/headers/dual exhaust...) and I am getting tired of the hot foot. My car runs real good and the timing is right, the engine does not get hot (never over 200). I was wondering if switching from the headers back to the stock manifolds (keep the dual exhaust) would reduce the heat down by my feet.
I do not have cats or any of the emission stuff on the engine. The headers were on the car when I bought it about 4 years ago and they are just painted, not powder coated.
I have the transmission tunnel insulation in, dynomat in the cabin and on the tranny tunnel and even added some extra insulation around the gas pedal.
1. Would it reduce the heat down by my feet?
2. Would it effect HP?
3. Would this be an easy change (from headers back to stock manifolds)
sounds like you need lizard skin it's a spray on insulation that really works people have even reported that a fire had started in there engine bay and burned down there whole garage and the cab where the lizard skin was. It was ok unbelivable is what I said and then I saw the test with the ice and so It looks like it would work great
1. Yes, but I woUld wrap the headers with insulation before I removed them permanently.
2. There would be a performance hit, especially in the mid and upper rpm ranges.
3. Not too hard, but you will need to get all the old header gasket off the exhaust ports and then have a muffler shop make appropriate downpipes to fit your existing exhaust.
I would try 1 first. Did you replace the band of insulation across the transmission between it and the tunnel? It blocks a lot of heat.
I have headers & just factory insulation. I would solve the problem instead of removing the headers which would hurt performance & may not solve the issue.
Check for heat from the heater. The blower runs all the time on low. I changed Low to Off.
Layton, does this lizard skin go on the inside or outside? I will research this.I may try this along with wrapping the headers. Do you have any recommendations as far as the wrap goes? I know I can get some at advanced auto (10% discount for military) or should I go with one of the venders here? I have the heater core shut off but the fan is on low all the time.
I do have the insulation between the tunnel and tranny. Let me pull the headers and wrap them and we will see how that goes. I know there are some people against wrapping them but I have a feeling mine won't last much longer (cheaply made and over 10 years old) so I am sure I will have to replace them soon.
I went from non-coated headers to some jet-hot coated headers, and it significantly reduced the temperature down at my feet.
FYI: Jet-hot coats the inside and outside of the header which from what I understand is important for reducing the heat.
Also: There is another company called Airborn coatings which was started from the prior owner of Jet-hot, and it seems a lot of people have been happy with their work. (they also coat the inside and outside)
You can spray Lizard Skin on both inside and outside, most just spray it on the bare floor then put the dynomat etc over it. If you spray it underneath make sure you use a paint that is somewhat flexible overtop of it. When I do mine I'll be spraying LS then do the soundproofing overtop.
You can spray Lizard Skin on both inside and outside, most just spray it on the bare floor then put the dynomat etc over it. If you spray it underneath make sure you use a paint that is somewhat flexible overtop of it. When I do mine I'll be spraying LS then do the soundproofing overtop.
I thought i would spray the LS ceramic on the out side and the sound deadner on the inside.
I always put down the insulation from Lowes store that is silver on both side with the bubble wrap in the middle.
Its easy to work with and cut then just tape back together with duct tape.
im getting ready to swap out my manifolds for headers as soon as they get here from Summit.
I always put down the insulation from Lowes store that is silver on both side with the bubble wrap in the middle.
Its easy to work with and cut then just tape back together with duct tape.
im getting ready to swap out my manifolds for headers as soon as they get here from Summit.
Hey Dan,
I recently made my own Lizard skin. I did my own "Icecube" test and it works really well.
Lizzard skin costs, I think, $165. I bought a bag of glass balloons from Wicks Aircraft for $9 and mixed it with some latex paint I had laying around.
It needs to be pretty thick so I did 3 coats with a paint brush. That cured alot of my issues ,though I still have hot air blowing in from somewhere.
Check for heat from the heater. The blower runs all the time on low. I changed Low to Off.
Chances are pretty good that your heater core shut off valve isn't working well.
This is the FIRST - and cheapest and easiest - possible cause of your hot feet that you should check and eliminate. Been there - done that.
There are many forum threads showing how and what to use for positively blocking coolant flow through your heater core. Install a low-cost shut-off valve (Home Depot, NAPA, etc.) in the supply hose from your water pump to your heater core, make sure it is in the "off" position, and go for a drive. If your feet stay cool, you've isolated the problem. Then you can decide if you want to do anything more.
I can't recommend enough getting your headers ceramic coated. I own a 79 with a warmed over original L-82 with headers. I go everywhere in the summer with flip flops on, so as soon as I get in the car, I kick them off. Before I had my headers coated, I had to remember to wear shoes when going on a long trip or my feet would burn. Now, after coating the headers, I can go barefoot, even on a long trip. I won't tell you the floor isn't still warm, it is, but it is significantly cooler, as my bare feet tell me.