I was going to replace the control valvue but wasn't sure about how to remove the pitman arm to control valvue connection. Everything seems tight which is a good thing.. In order to remove the arm I have to get the pully up in there..

(Question 1.) Do you get at this from under the car or is it easier from the driver side with wheel off? I'm thinking a combination of both..

(Question 2.) The puller is going to pull up the pitman arm while pushing down the control valve pitman arm bolt but since everything is tight how does this work. Doesn't seem to have any play between the pitman arm and the control valvue.. Wouldn't one have to give? I feel like I'm going to bend something.. I haven't removed any bolts yet so it may have some play then but thought I'd ask first.

 

If you are going to replace the control valve and don't worry about the rubber a pickle fork will work. They are cheap but destroy rubber boots.

 

Pickle forks also damage the gear box... GM service manual specifically says not to use them for this reason.
You pound on the fork, it pounds on the arm & shaft, and the shaft pounds on the bushings/bearings in the gear box.
It's that simple.

But hey, I'm an idiot. What do I know. :)

 

I would assume the proper way which Tom didn't mention would be to remove the pitman arm from the steering box with a gear puller, then you can hav fun with a pickle fork without damaging the steering box.

Me, the pickle fork never worked, the pitman arm is not coming off without the help of a torch, I get a large pry bar put the head on the ball stud and lever it against the frame them lightly ;) tap the pitman arm with a large hammer.

 

I purchased a pitman arm puller but there ain't a whole lot of room in there.. When the puller pulls on the pitman arm and pushes on the control valvue is there enough room for these two to separate?

 

I'm curious about that also. I have to change mine soon.
Let me know how u make out.

Pat

 

I just did this on my 72 about 10 days ago. I had the pickle fork but didn't like the idea of using it. Using a 2X4 piece of wood I was able to pry the control valve off of the arm without any banging. Yes, you will want to remove the left front wheel and also jack up the car as high as possible. Of course, jack stands are a must. When you do the control valve rebuild, ensure that you have a good parts schematic like the one in the GM Overhaul Manual. It was a must for me because my note taking, when I took the control valve apart, wasn't that great. Depending on how far you go with this rebuild/repair remember that the AIM has specific instructions on how the hoses go as far as alignment and angles. This ensures that the hoses don't bind during hard turns.
Gary

 

You can download the exploded view of the control valve, a sketch of the internal seals, the control valve overhaul instructions, and tje replace and balance instructions from http://www.corvettefaq.com Look under Steering.

 

I used a pitman arm puller to remove the relay rod from the control valve.
I mounted the pitman arm above the control valve with the threaded
rod portion of the pitman arm pointing toward the upper control arm.
Pulled up the dust shield which covers the top of the control arm and
saw a hole in the upper control arm. The hole was large enough
for a ratchet extension. Placed the socket on the extension once
it was thru the hole and then used a ratchet to turn the pitman arm
puller. Hope this helps.

 

Pitman arm pullers come in a great variety of shapes & sizes, as do 2 and 3 jaw pullers.
As noted above, there is limited room to use a puller here.
Finding a puller that fits and works is the trick.

I have been using an OTC puller to do Corvette PS control valves for over 25 years and it has never failed me.
The old part number is HC 643, new number 7311.
I recently purchased the heavier duty model #7310 for heavy duty applications.
These are not cheap tools, but they perfom.

The 7311 just barely fits above the valve, but by moving the steering to a certain "sweet" spot, you can get it in there and pop the valve stud off the pitman arm. I also have a piece of steel stock that I insert between the tip of the puller bolt and the nut/stud to help keep the puller bolt in proper contact with the nut/stud. I loosen the nut, but leave it threaded on the stud to protect the threads from damage, and to avoid an unpleasant surprise when the thing finally lets go. They are usually over-torqued by Bubba and this is why they can be tough to get off.

Also, when you remove the valve from the link, don't mess up the internal threads by prying in the groove with a screw driver.
This is a common error. The tap required to repair the internal threads is hefty both in size & price.

This thread is constantly re-curring on this forum and usually either Jim or I respond not to pound on the assembly, and there is the usual group of hammer mechanics that argue with us about it. Jim is definitely the "guru" on this one. Heed his advice.

Too bad we can't add a "button" to the forum that says... "Power Steering Valve Removal". :)

 

Thanks to all for the advice. I printed out the procedures from corvette faqs and also went out and purchased a new 55lbs valve and the OTC 7311 about a month ago but since then the valvue stopped leaking.. I figured if that's all it takes to get it to stop leaking is to buy expensive tools I'm all set.. but it started dripping again so today I go in. I don't know how comfortable I am about cutting any wholes but once I'm in there I'll keep that as an option.. I'll let you know what I find! :cheers:

 

I did the change over yesterday and it took apx. 4hrs.. On an '80 the motor mount bracket goes right over the control valvue so there's NO excess space to work in there but there are 2 round wholes in the bracket to get an extention through so no cutting for me... I was able to fit the OTC 7311 puller in there and with a socket on top it sat against the bottom of this bracket and then from the engine compartment I could turn the puller.. Not an easy task but with the help of Mr. Pipe on the end of the socket wrench she broke free.. I must have screwed up the bolt head cause the control valve to pitman arm nut got jammed on the bolt which I had to cut off.. Putting something between the puller and bolt would have been a good idea but space was at a premium.. Also, when you remove the hoses DON"T turn the wheel.. I got squirted from the control arm which looks like a double super soaker.. Lucky it hit me in the chest and not the face.. Basically this is a messy job.. Once the nut was cut off and hoses removed I counted the turns it took to come out and then installed the new one putting back the same number of turns. Got the hoses back in place and I was done. When I filled the pump it looked over full.. damm. but once I start the car and got that oil moving I needed to add more.. Only add a little at a time or you'll be sucking it out.. Don't ask how I know this.. :mad I also went with a 55lbs rebuild from Vette Brakes.. I drove the car to work this morning and I'm still wondering if I like it. It's a different feel than what I'm use to but it's a tighter feel.. I need a few more days before I can say yeay or neay on the tougher spring.. Hope this helps.. Let me know if you have specific questions..