Willcox Rear Adjustable Strut Rod Installation
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Willcox Rear Adjustable Strut Rod Installation
Just received the SU39J units today but no instructions! The order of round washers, square washers, lock washers, bolts, nuts, etc. at the old stock cam end is not explained. Does anyone have a diagram or photo of how these things go on?
I assume a brake clean compound spray is necessary to clean up the adjusting threads before applying blue LocTite for the locking nuts on the shafts. I hear/read they have a tendency to loosen up so I need to clamp them down very tightly. Reluctant to use red LocTite.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...d7d8a7f557b29a
I assume a brake clean compound spray is necessary to clean up the adjusting threads before applying blue LocTite for the locking nuts on the shafts. I hear/read they have a tendency to loosen up so I need to clamp them down very tightly. Reluctant to use red LocTite.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...d7d8a7f557b29a
Last edited by Paul L; Aug 19, 2011 at 05:43 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Paul
We thought you were kidding, what no inst.! We always get outasight installation diagrams, etc. w/ headers, cam etc!
Anyway some Inst. here under Poly Adj. Strut Rods:
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette/View-category.html
We thought you were kidding, what no inst.! We always get outasight installation diagrams, etc. w/ headers, cam etc!
Anyway some Inst. here under Poly Adj. Strut Rods:
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette/View-category.html
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Paul
We thought you were kidding, what no inst.! We always get outasight installation diagrams, etc. w/ headers, cam etc!
Anyway some Inst. here under Poly Adj. Strut Rods:
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette/View-category.html
We thought you were kidding, what no inst.! We always get outasight installation diagrams, etc. w/ headers, cam etc!
Anyway some Inst. here under Poly Adj. Strut Rods:
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette/View-category.html
Last edited by Paul L; Aug 19, 2011 at 08:35 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,865
Likes: 1
From: I may be getting old but I refuse to grow up
Paul
This should be all you need to install the adjustable struts
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette/View-category.html
Scroll down the page to "Poly Adjustable Strut Rods" and you can open or download the instruction page
This should be all you need to install the adjustable struts
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette/View-category.html
Scroll down the page to "Poly Adjustable Strut Rods" and you can open or download the instruction page
Last edited by stpman; Aug 19, 2011 at 08:58 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Sorry about that Paul... I suppose someone left them out of the kit. If you don't figure it out let me know and I'll get you some posted. I just saw this, I've been gone most of the day.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
I have pretty much sorted things out (at least the planning). The VBP instructions speak of welding the strut rod bracket tabs. That's a problem as I do not have a welder. They also say to remove the rear spring bolt? I would guess that is to get a good clear whack at the shock mount? Comments would be welcomed.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,851
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I've installed these and not welded the bracket tabs. The bracket from the factory was spot welded and good enough for standard driving. If you are doing a performance thing then yes you may want to weld them but for daily driving I don't see this as needed.
Yes, you'll need to remove the spring end bolt from the car. Doing this removes the spring load from the arm and allows for an easier installation plus... you'll get a clan whack at the bolt for sure.
Just be careful when you jack up the spring. We use C clamps on the spring with a 3" section of L channel. It gives the jack something to rest against and not slip up the spring.
Willcox
Yes, you'll need to remove the spring end bolt from the car. Doing this removes the spring load from the arm and allows for an easier installation plus... you'll get a clan whack at the bolt for sure.
Just be careful when you jack up the spring. We use C clamps on the spring with a 3" section of L channel. It gives the jack something to rest against and not slip up the spring.
Willcox
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
I've installed these and not welded the bracket tabs. The bracket from the factory was spot welded and good enough for standard driving. If you are doing a performance thing then yes you may want to weld them but for daily driving I don't see this as needed.
Yes, you'll need to remove the spring end bolt from the car. Doing this removes the spring load from the arm and allows for an easier installation plus... you'll get a clan whack at the bolt for sure.
Just be careful when you jack up the spring. We use C clamps on the spring with a 3" section of L channel. It gives the jack something to rest against and not slip up the spring.
Willcox
Yes, you'll need to remove the spring end bolt from the car. Doing this removes the spring load from the arm and allows for an easier installation plus... you'll get a clan whack at the bolt for sure.
Just be careful when you jack up the spring. We use C clamps on the spring with a 3" section of L channel. It gives the jack something to rest against and not slip up the spring.
Willcox
It seems the force of the strut at the differential end is centered on the lipped washers, not the inside sleeve of the bushings as the bolt is much smaller than the ID of the sleeves. Interesting design; those sleeves have no purpose?? Why not just have the bolt match the ID of the sleeve, lube the bolt shaft for movement, and have non-lipped washers at the ends to protect the ends of the rubber/poly? Just curious.
These aftermarket units are very strange. I may just buy new rubber bushings for my original strut rods. At least they don't loosen up as I have heard and read for the poly.
Last edited by Paul L; Aug 20, 2011 at 08:49 PM.
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 2
From: Lewisburg WV
thegazman
I have pretty much sorted things out (at least the planning). The VBP instructions speak of welding the strut rod bracket tabs. That's a problem as I do not have a welder. They also say to remove the rear spring bolt? I would guess that is to get a good clear whack at the shock mount? Comments would be welcomed.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Welding the tabs is not necessary, but provides a little extra insurance. It's easy to do. Take the bracket off and take it to a shop that can weld it for you. It only takes a few minutes to weld and shouldn't cost much. A local welding shop did mine for free with a MIG welder.
You will not be sorry.
