Charging question.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Charging question.
Hi, everybody,
I finally got my carb repaired, after I snapped an ear off of the baseplate because I don't know my own strength, and sure enough........the battery was dead. So, I jump started it with my pick-up. Started up, but now, as soon as I remove the jumper cables, the engine stays running, but gradually drains the battery and then stalls after a couple minutes. If I charge up the battery again with the jumper cables, same thing: It'll start, run for a few minutes until the voltmeter gets down to about 8, and then die. Also, if I disconnect the battery while it's running, it dies. I should be able to disconnect the battery while the car is running, shouldn't I? I brought the alternator down to Advance Auto and had it tested on their machine, it passed just fine. I have gone over the cables superficially, and there is nothing that looks like it would be a poor ground, although I suppose that doesn't really mean anything. I have had a key-off draw problem for sometime, and the battery has been drained dead several times, could it just be that the battery is now junk?
Scott
I finally got my carb repaired, after I snapped an ear off of the baseplate because I don't know my own strength, and sure enough........the battery was dead. So, I jump started it with my pick-up. Started up, but now, as soon as I remove the jumper cables, the engine stays running, but gradually drains the battery and then stalls after a couple minutes. If I charge up the battery again with the jumper cables, same thing: It'll start, run for a few minutes until the voltmeter gets down to about 8, and then die. Also, if I disconnect the battery while it's running, it dies. I should be able to disconnect the battery while the car is running, shouldn't I? I brought the alternator down to Advance Auto and had it tested on their machine, it passed just fine. I have gone over the cables superficially, and there is nothing that looks like it would be a poor ground, although I suppose that doesn't really mean anything. I have had a key-off draw problem for sometime, and the battery has been drained dead several times, could it just be that the battery is now junk?
Scott
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Advance Auto, aren't they in the auto parts selling business? You'd think their battery tester guy would jump at the chance to sell you a new wet cell. Perhaps it would be a wise move to drive there and have your charging system checked. Ya think?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Scott
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Does your battery light in the dash come on when the key is in the ON position-it must for the alternator to work. Check your gauges fuse , it powers the battery light.
The test light in the above pic takes the place temporarily of the Battery light.
The test light in the above pic takes the place temporarily of the Battery light.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
I am kind of a knucklehead when it comes to anything electrical, but I have just been looking around on the internet, and have found a place that says if you measure the battery's charge at rest, and then measure it while it's running, and the charge is lower when it's running, you need a new alternator. Well, the tester passed my alternator, so all I can figure is that the electricity generated by the alternator is not getting to where it needs to get to. If I jumpstart it, it just runs off the battery until it sucks all the juice out of it and dies. I don't get it, and I don't really know what the next step in the process should be.
Scott
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
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Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
The alternator needs to be excited by the Battery light in the dash , if the bulb is burned out you r alternator will act like your describing-no output.
Do you have a 12 v test light ? If so I can tell you how to create a temporary Battery light circuit to see if your alternator will function.
Do you have a 12 v test light ? If so I can tell you how to create a temporary Battery light circuit to see if your alternator will function.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Scott
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
The alternator needs to be excited by the Battery light in the dash , if the bulb is burned out you r alternator will act like your describing-no output.
Do you have a 12 v test light ? If so I can tell you how to create a temporary Battery light circuit to see if your alternator will function.
Do you have a 12 v test light ? If so I can tell you how to create a temporary Battery light circuit to see if your alternator will function.
Scott
Last edited by scottyp99; Sep 6, 2011 at 06:17 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
On the back of your alternator you have a large pos post and on the top you have a 2 wire connector with a large red wire and a smaller brown.
Connect the alligator clip on your test light to the large pos post on the back of alt.
Then put the probe down in with the brown wire in the top connector.
Careful getting the cap off the large pos post,don't use a screwdriver.
Connect the alligator clip on your test light to the large pos post on the back of alt.
Then put the probe down in with the brown wire in the top connector.
Careful getting the cap off the large pos post,don't use a screwdriver.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
On the back of your alternator you have a large pos post and on the top you have a 2 wire connector with a large red wire and a smaller brown.
Connect the alligator clip on your test light to the large pos post on the back of alt.
Then put the probe down in with the brown wire in the top connector.
Careful getting the cap off the large pos post,don't use a screwdriver.
Connect the alligator clip on your test light to the large pos post on the back of alt.
Then put the probe down in with the brown wire in the top connector.
Careful getting the cap off the large pos post,don't use a screwdriver.
Scott
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
If it works then you need to find out why the Battery light circuit is open or dead.
The circuit needs 12v so a blown fuse could be the prob but if the gauges work that's probably not it.
The bulb could be burned out.
Probably the most common problem with this circuit is the printed circuit in the center cluster. Where the large plug goes in the back the thin brass contacts can fold over.
After the test,pull the 2 wire connector and check the brown wire for voltage with the key on.
The circuit needs 12v so a blown fuse could be the prob but if the gauges work that's probably not it.
The bulb could be burned out.
Probably the most common problem with this circuit is the printed circuit in the center cluster. Where the large plug goes in the back the thin brass contacts can fold over.
After the test,pull the 2 wire connector and check the brown wire for voltage with the key on.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Okey-dokey, Roger, I won't be able to post again until thursday afternoon, unless I really need input, then I can go down to the library, I guess. Thanks again,
Scott
Scott