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its an old dualpoint unit converted to unilight it never had vacuum advance tune initial and mechanical advance to get your total. years ago unless you had a magneto that was as good as it got. a vacuum advance will give you a little more mileage. old school cool!
The screws that hold the cap clips to the body remove and allow you to pull the points mounting plate out of the distributor body to reveal the mechanical advance weights and springs below. You need a "key" to set the stops proper distance for different degrees of advance (or a handily carved block of plastic, metal or wood.)
Here is a link: http://prestoliteperformance.com/Por..._kit_29014.pdf
its an old dualpoint unit converted to unilight it never had vacuum advance tune initial and mechanical advance to get your total. years ago unless you had a magneto that was as good as it got. a vacuum advance will give you a little more mileage. old school cool!
Originally Posted by Solid LT1
The screws that hold the cap clips to the body remove and allow you to pull the points mounting plate out of the distributor body to reveal the mechanical advance weights and springs below. You need a "key" to set the stops proper distance for different degrees of advance (or a handily carved block of plastic, metal or wood.)
Here is a link: http://prestoliteperformance.com/Por..._kit_29014.pdf
Thanks Guys,
I will check timing soon. The link should help.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by AAJC
Can anyone tell me how this Mallory distributor setup works.
There is no vacuum advance
I havnt checked timing yet, but I would like to start tuning when I have a better understanding. Thanks in advance
Andrew
Good pun! intended or not!
Total mechanical advance in that oldie, don't need no stinkin vac can!
Make sure you have an inline ballast resistor on the power wire or you'll pop that unilite module in a heart beat. Resistor should be the white long bar style. If there is or your going to use a hyfire box or msd box than the resistor can be omitted.
I used to sell Mallory products at Super Shops along time ago and it's really easy to blow the module in these distributors. They work great as long as their wired correctly.
Make sure you have an inline ballast resistor on the power wire or you'll pop that unilite module in a heart beat. Resistor should be the white long bar style. If there is or your going to use a hyfire box or msd box than the resistor can be omitted.
I used to sell Mallory products at Super Shops along time ago and it's really easy to blow the module in these distributors. They work great as long as their wired correctly.
its an old dualpoint unit converted to unilight it never had vacuum advance tune initial and mechanical advance to get your total. years ago unless you had a magneto that was as good as it got. a vacuum advance will give you a little more mileage. old school cool!
Yep, I had a mallory dual point , I never converted it to unilight , went MSD instead. The dual point was great but difficult to keep tuned. I heard the unilight was a great upgrade.