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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 02:11 PM
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Default Engine guys i need your help

Guys ive been noticing a small drop in engine vaccum at idle,it reads about 8 on the gauge and it use to be about 15,but when i rev it up to about a 1000 rpms the vacuum goes up to about 20.Do i have a problem here?the engine does run good ,I did change to a bigger cam too ,would this have anything to do with it . Valves seem to be adjusted ,i know this can cause the problem.The engine starts right up and idles the way its suppose to.The vaccum drop just puzzles me.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 04:02 PM
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More duration in the cam will lower the vacuum.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 05:50 PM
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I don't want to alarm you but it could point to a ring seal problem. Warm up the engine and do a compression test.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 08:32 PM
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The cam duration,maybe, but it seems to have lowered in vacuum during this cam. and the rings i thought about ,but why would vaccum go back up to normal when i rev it up a little , from, 700 to a little over a 1000 rpms,and if i remember correctly the vacuum gauge needle didnot jump around or fluctuate any,it stayed steady at low rpms and higher rpms.i think this means rings are ok .Also i put total seal rings in , but i know that doesnt mean anything if the rings didnt seat. i dont know. any ideas ,im fishing here
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Billysvette
The cam duration,maybe, but it seems to have lowered in vacuum during this cam. and the rings i thought about ,but why would vaccum go back up to normal when i rev it up a little , from, 700 to a little over a 1000 rpms,and if i remember correctly the vacuum gauge needle didnot jump around or fluctuate any,it stayed steady at low rpms and higher rpms.i think this means rings are ok .Also i put total seal rings in , but i know that doesnt mean anything if the rings didnt seat. i dont know. any ideas ,im fishing here
"but it seems to have lowered in vacuum during this cam."


I'm sorry if it sounds like I'm being sarcastic, but could you clarify this statement? I have no idea what you are trying to say here.


Scott
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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I'm thinkin' he means the vac. change happened WHILE he was using his new cam.
Not a change WITH the new cam.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 10:50 PM
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Check your timing first, then for vacuum leaks.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
I'm thinkin' he means the vac. change happened WHILE he was using his new cam.
Not a change WITH the new cam.
So, ya think he means that this drop in vacuum happened well after he started using the engine with the new cam? OK, we'll go with that. I'm thinking vacuum leak. Always verify timing before anything else, tho, good rule of thumb.


Scott
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 11:34 PM
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Try spraying intake, carb base to intake, and surrounding vac line With carb cleaner. if you notice a Change in idle, you have a vacuum leak.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Billysvette
The cam duration,maybe, but it seems to have lowered in vacuum during this cam. and the rings i thought about ,but why would vaccum go back up to normal when i rev it up a little , from, 700 to a little over a 1000 rpms,and if i remember correctly the vacuum gauge needle didnot jump around or fluctuate any,it stayed steady at low rpms and higher rpms.i think this means rings are ok .Also i put total seal rings in , but i know that doesnt mean anything if the rings didnt seat. i dont know. any ideas ,im fishing here
I take it that your vacuum goes up when the car sits still and the engine is not under load ? That could explain why it's getting a better vacuum reading at higher rpm.

I had the same thing happening on a new motor of mine (see one of my threads about machineshops). Turned out that the block was not plate honed as was requested and the rings didn't seal anymore when warmed up. (maybe you should measure vacuumreading between being cold and warm for verification reasons). Anyway, the cullpritt was not only the rings not sealing, but either due to fuel washing off the oil or the oil getting burned off because of large blow by, caused the pistons to scuff. This was after only 20 minutes of initial break in.

BTW : i'm by no means an engine expert. However i do think you need to check some things. Some of those checks, like a compression test can be easily preformed by you. If necessary get you oil analysed. This doesn't cost much and prevents you from having to take your engine apart to check.

Last edited by Belgian1979vette; Sep 12, 2011 at 03:22 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 06:52 PM
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Thanks for the replys guys.The vaccum lose was with the new cam,it was alright at the beginning and as i drove it for a while i noticed the the vaccum was going down on idle,but when i rev it up to about 1000 rpms , in neutral the vaccum goes up to normal between 15 to 20. there are no vaccum leaks,everything is new,and timing is on.im kinda thinking it might be the rings not seating,i broke the engine in on a engine stand and i guess i should have done it on the road to put a load on it. The engine has alot of power to it But a blower will give any engine power.

Last edited by Billysvette; Sep 12, 2011 at 06:54 PM.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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I missed the part about the engine having a blower in your previous posts. Did it have a blower on it prior to the cam swap?
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
I missed the part about the engine having a blower in your previous posts. Did it have a blower on it prior to the cam swap?
Yes
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 07:22 PM
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Man, I don't know nuttin' about pressurized induction systems. Sorry, but I'm out.

Scott
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
Man, I don't know nuttin' about pressurized induction systems. Sorry, but I'm out.

Scott
Me Too!!!
Sorry and Good Luck!!!
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