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Can't install alternator bracket with new stainless headers
If I use the regular 3/8 bolts, I am fine.. BUT I have to put the alternator bracket on the front two holes and its about 1/8" thick.. so there isn't enough length to the studs to get any to grab. I can't install a 1/8" longer bolt because the header pipe is not dented enough. I can get the front one in as the pipe is not in the way but this one in the picture is kicking my ***! I do NOT want to take this header and sidepipe off. I have it all buttoned down and clutch parts all installed. Perhaps there is another alternator bracket that will use the next hole down the row instead of this hole? These are the stainless headers that 'Josh' was selling.
I would have a similar problem except that I can put the header on and bolt in, then put on the bracket. Look at my bracket. Your's could be modified to be similar.
^ I see how that works but it still won't work for me. Its the thickness of the bracket that hurts me because I can't use a bolt that is 1/8" longer than stock, I can't get it in due to the small dent in the header. I have to find a bracket that doesn't use header bolts. I see a million here but I don't know what will work for me http://www.summitracing.com/search/P.../?Ns=Price|Asc
Thanks I see there are a bunch of options for different mounts going to the head. I like the ones with the adjustable heim joints on them. I also see it matters if you have a long or short water pump. How do I know what I have. My car has an aluminum edlebrock waterpump on it (I am guessing someone added a larger one due to the blower)
Perhaps something like this? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SME-2001/?rtype=10 I don't know if my heads have accessory holes.
Last edited by arcticcatmatt; Sep 23, 2011 at 11:33 PM.
i screwed around with the aftermarket mount for a few days and gave up on the damned thing.
i bought a, i think 73+, corvette alternator mount and i bolted on perfectly. no screwing around, no clearance issues, nothing. just bolted it onto the head and that was the end of it.
Thanks I see there are a bunch of options for different mounts going to the head. I like the ones with the adjustable heim joints on them. I also see it matters if you have a long or short water pump. How do I know what I have. My car has an aluminum edlebrock waterpump on it (I am guessing someone added a larger one due to the blower)
Perhaps something like this? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SME-2001/?rtype=10 I don't know if my heads have accessory holes.
I use the stock '71 alt. bracket that bolts to the head (similar to the above pic). No clearance issues.
yes I have tried a button head.. still no go. I just went out and took two pictures of my car.
Keep in mind my car is not stock and thats why I am asking so many questions. These heads are from a 71-72 LT1 (75cc) and I do have mounting holes in them
So perhaps I can use this bracket? I don't know why the listing says 72 and up. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-...item415d5ab2fe
Wish it was polished.
My other concern is that my waterpump isn't stock.. its an edlebrock. I am not sure if its a "long" or a "short" setup. How do I tell? Here is a photo
I also have powersteering and I think the valve covers are tall M/T's (roller rockers).
Those aftermarket mounts look nice and are about the same price as the OEM. Anyone been successful with them? Thanks in advance, this thing is just about the last thing I need to do to get my car back on the road
Last edited by arcticcatmatt; Sep 24, 2011 at 11:08 AM.
Back to the alternator bracket problem. Are you saying the 1/8" longer bolt cannot go through the bracket/header flange even if you temporarily remove all other header bolts and pull the flange away from the heads 1/2"?
Since you found out you do have the accessory holes in your heads, I would think the bracket you found at Summit would be the best way to go. That would get rid of the bracket problem, would not interfere with the header bolts, and give you additional adjustment room with your alternator.
Thanks for that photo! I just went and measured, Its about 5" so its close to the "short" waterpump. So now I am wondering what mount I need that will not hit my power steering and will work with tall valve covers. Getting closer
I just took out all header bolts and pulled header back to try and put the longer bolt in that way but of course I didn't think about how to tighten it after that.. no way to get a allen wrench on it then because the header.. mounting the alternator to the header is my only option. I worry about buying that stock one on ebay because I have tall valve covers, I don't know if it will clear and I wonder if that works with the eldlebrock waterpump that is on it (belt line up). If I buy from summit I can return it if I buy GM stock one from ebay I am stuck with it hmm
^ I see how that works but it still won't work for me. Its the thickness of the bracket that hurts me because I can't use a bolt that is 1/8" longer than stock, I can't get it in due to the small dent in the header. I have to find a bracket that doesn't use header bolts. I see a million here but I don't know what will work for me http://www.summitracing.com/search/P.../?Ns=Price|Asc
If you slightly elongate (if really necessary) the hole in the header, you can angle the longer bolt in with the headers pulled back from the engine. Get the flange in place and the bolt in the hole and it should stick out enough that you can wrangle that side into the bracket slot.
BTW, these things really are crap and flex like the Dickins. Yours already appears to have a crack. If I had accessory bolt holes on the head, I would have gone with a head-mount bracket of which there are several nice ones to choose from. You notice the extra piece welded to mine to reduce flex. There is also one welded on the other side and it still visually flexes. These things pull apart just like an accordion reducing tension on the belt and are often the soure of belt squeal as teh alternator flexes in toward the centerline of the engine.
For my header mount, I used bolts that were too long and ground them down to size. As you know, stock header bolts dont have enough length to engage enough threads for thick flanges plus the bracket.
Last edited by toddalin; Sep 24, 2011 at 01:30 PM.
The GM part will work regardless of what valve covers you are using.
The only reason most people run into problems with tall valve covers on the SBC is the belt they were running is too short. Unless the alt is currently at the end of the slot of the upper arm, just get a longer belt and rotate the alt away from the VC. Here is the GM bracket on my 69.
Here is what I did to bolt on the new pipes. Switched to socket head bolts and cut and tacked a length from the end of a 5/16 in ball end allen wrench into a 5/16th in. socket. This gets into the bolt heads from an angle and works right down the line.
The GM part will work regardless of what valve covers you are using.
The only reason most people run into problems with tall valve covers on the SBC is the belt they were running is too short. Unless the alt is currently at the end of the slot of the upper arm, just get a longer belt and rotate the alt away from the VC....
Not completely true, very tall valve covers like mine are a bigger problem. A belt not long enough to fit over the pulleys with the alternator against the valve cover will let the alternator rotate all the way around on the head bracket before there is much tension at all, let alone within the confines of the upper bracket slot. With my shorter M/T valve covers (which I can't use with my stud girdles) I could go with a slightly smaller belt that could barely be installed with the alternator against the valve cover and at the far end of the slot had almost adequate tension. I have no other data regarding other valve covers, although it all works great with stock covers and a stock length belt.
I recently gave up on this mess and designed and fabricated my own brackets and switched to a (physically) smaller alternator (same output rating) if you are interested and have access to a mill.
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