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I had the 15X7 western wheels on my '72 when I first bought it in '88. I thought they looked good with 235-60 BFGs. You might was to go with 225-60VR15s for a tire (factory issue on older mustang GTs) To mount these wheels, you use a special lug nut and a special bigazz washer. You bolt one lug in loosely, rotate wheel, bolt another in loosely, and continue. This action will automatically center the wheel. I never had a problem with mine.

How did I know you'd be taking this on the autobahn!!!

On the backfiring, check your vacuum advance 1st. Just unhook it and plug it off to see if it makes a dif. You may need adjustable canister to minimize advance.

I stick with my head recommendation. Big heads with small cams (ie LS engines) work a lot better than big cams with poor flowing heads.
A roller cam will give you more torque all over (including midrange) vs a hydraulic.
I'd also stick with the 1 3/4 headers. keep your current intake manifold, though.

Convertibel1970

Hi,

1. Are any proven setups with my base 300HP engine out there, especially in a book or documented way?
I need to see dyno graphs...
(Sorry, I´m an engineer and believing figures, only)

2. What is the most modern computer or flowbench optimized head type?
I think here have been comparison tests in a Corvette/Chevrolet magazine.

3. Is it possible to center the unilug Western Wheels by the wheel center caps or the spacers?
I need spacers anyway, because the calipers are touching the wheels.

Thanks for your help,

Andreas

Ganey

The Edelbrock cam you have was for use with Edelbrock heads, over 300hp & Edelbrock has charts. If you keep the cam which matches what you want, then you need better heads.
If you were going to wait on heads, I would rec. a better cam for stock heads & the cam you have now may be worn. Rings & bearings are inexpensive for the very popular SBC.

101Airborne