Can someone run me through a cam change. Easy, hard ?

Haven't worked on a car for over 20 years

Cam change for Dummies ..

I have decided to go with a summit 1104 cam and want to know what other items i need other than lifters. Do i need to change the pushrods?

Do i need a special tool to remove/install harmonic balancer

Do i need to replace the timing chain. If so should i install the noisy geared type

What gaskets will i need.

I already have all the gaskets for the manifold change (performer 2101)
and figured i will change the cam whilst at it.

1975 L48

 

Here is a pretty good article with pics to get you started:

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ion/index.html

The noisy timing gears are fun for about 5 minutes, after that you'll want to go back to a chain.

Gaskets: Intake, water pump, & timing cover set

With a mild "street/strip" cam you can get away with reusing your pushrods. DO NOT reuse your lifters.

Plan on pulling the radiator if the engine is in the car.

A Harmonic Balancer installer is a nice tool to have and not too expensive - but why are you removing it?

 

If he is going to replace the timing chain crank gear, he is going to have to remove the harmonic damper. Actually, can you even get the timing chain cover off without removeing the damper?


Scott

 

LOL! You are so right.

Funny how things go together in your head after a couple cold ones.

 

Ha ha!!! I know exactly whatcha mean, brother!


Scott

 

you gather up all your parts and take the Vette to a good repair shop....24 hours later you will be out enjoying your car ......or the alternative is to follow some printed instructions from wherever and plan on not using the car for sometimes months....Its not a easy job even for the pros .......

 

A service manual is your friend

It's not a tough job - but if you've never done it you need another pair of experienced hands and eyes to help you through it to be 100% sure of success.

 

To me changing the cam is not a big deal. I couldn't wait to change the cam on my first car. A neighbor kid came over & seeing the engine all disassembled asked it I thought it would ever run again.

It runs tonight.


It ran great. It was my only car & had no one to call & no exp., just books. It was absolutely imperative!

Use a roller timing set.

 

Here is a basic video of the physical installation of a camshaft into the engine. Check out their other videos since they have one for setting valve lash which you'll need to do. Granted these are just excerpts from their DVD which might be beneficial to order or find something similar to help you with this job.

The radiator can be the most difficult or challenging I should say and you'll need a Harmonic balancer remover and they do make an installation tool that uses a 32mm wrench (something most folks don't have in their tool box, hence additional expense). You'll also need an impact wrench to remove the crank bolt (at least you should need one, if not I would start to worry )

Definetly change the timing chain and gears with a double roller (row) timing chain. Depending on the age and mileage on your engine now would be the time to change the water pump, possibly the fuel pump since these have to be removed anyway, again additional costs and things to think about.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57bn-...feature=relmfu

 

You can pay to have it done, or you can get the satisfaction out of doing it your self. you should replace the valve springs to match the cam shaft. push rods should be the same unless you replace the heads, then youll need to mesure and replace the push rods. if you don't mind the car being down for a week, Do it yourself. Its fun, entertaining & most of all satisfying. another thing i would sugest is a two piece timing cover in case you ever want to make future changes.

1 remove hood.
2 remove shroud.
3 remove radiator.
4 remove fuel pump, fan, water pump, intake and distributor and valve covers.
5 either rent or buy a hamonic balancer puller and remove the balancer.
6 drain oil, and loosen the oil pan bolt.
7 remove the timing cover.
8 remove the timing gears and chain. youll need a gear puller to get the gear off the crank.
9 loosen all rocker arm & remove the push rods & lifters. a magnet some times helps with lifters.
10 reinstall the cam gear and slowly and gentally remove the cam.

if you get this far post with an up date, and well try to help walk you through intalling the new cam. Its not that tough take your time. do it right.

 

Bingo. Knowledge is power.

 

Valve Springs!

 

Spot on.

Also, you better plan on bagging and tagging everything. Get a camera, video camera and take more photos then you think you need from every single angle. You'll need it.

 

Start by pulling the motor lol. it will be easier in the long run.


Or do this from the post above....




1 remove hood.
2 remove shroud.
3 remove radiator.
4 remove fuel pump, fan, water pump, intake and distributor and valve covers.
5 either rent or buy a hamonic balancer puller and remove the balancer.
6 drain oil, and loosen the oil pan bolt.
7 remove the timing cover.
8 remove the timing gears and chain. youll need a gear puller to get the gear off the crank.
9 loosen all rocker arm & remove the push rods & lifters. a magnet some times helps with lifters.
10 reinstall the cam gear and slowly and gentally remove the cam.

 

A cam change is not a "whilst at it" procedure. However, if you are going to change the cam, there are several "while you are at it's".

I enjoyed changing the cam in my car and feel it was one of the most satisfying procedures to date. Personally, I changed every gasket except the head gaskets and exhaust.

I would change the lifters for sure.
pushrods if the cam requires it or they are worn.
timing chain for sure.
The timing cover sits in the oil pan. I removed the oil pan and cover and replaced both gaskets. That can get tricky with your steering linkage...

I think one of the most important things to do is to "pre-time" your engine to ensure a successful break-in. All I mean is this, most books probably tell you to set the timing to TDC and fire then motor, then set timing and proceed with break in procedure. I suggest marking your distributor (if possible) at the TDC point before you remove it. This will have the rotor pointing with its advance already in it. This way when you reassemble it you are already set at 8ish degrees (or whatever) advance and the motor will not only fire but run pretty well for the break in.

take your time on timing and valve adjustment before starting is my .02

Oh and detail and paint the engine compartment... up and running by spring for sure.

 

Yeah i forgot about baging and taging the part.