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Until I get to replace or rebuild the entire suspension I want to get some things done "for now" that will give me a better ride...a smoother ride. Will replacing bushings accomplish this? If so, which ones?
I need some opinions, I would like a quick fix to still drive in the next month or so before I get a chance to do everything else and not feel every tiny hole or bump.
I would say just wait until you do it all. If you are going as far as changing bushings you will have to have it all apart anyways so you might as well do it all at that time. One bushing you could change that probably needs to be changed is the front differential bushing (some refer to it as the snubber bushing) as these get worn out the increase the amount of squat in the rear and in my case caused rattles.
Until I get to replace or rebuild the entire suspension I want to get some things done "for now" that will give me a better ride...a smoother ride. Will replacing bushings accomplish this? If so, which ones?
I need some opinions, I would like a quick fix to still drive in the next month or so before I get a chance to do everything else and not feel every tiny hole or bump.
Thanks
Check for worn bushings incl. shocks. Check tire air pressure. A composite rear spring should help. Some replace the solid body mounts w/ 73-.
Smoother ride? Usually, the stock worn out suspension on these old cars makes them ride like a boat, which is to say, "smooth", lol. I would say that if your car is already stiff, then the suspension is....ok? The smoother a suspension is on a sports car, the more worn it generally is. Sounds to me like someone at some point already replaced the shocks, at the very least. Do a test...push down over the wheel wells on the four corners of the car. It should have very little give. If it has little give, then the shocks are fine. Stiff shocks are generally the culprit for a stiff ride, with the springs being second.
I found that doing the suspension all at once is the ideal way. A car's suspension is a total package. Replacing an old spring, without replacing the shocks, is going to net little to no results, really. Every piece relies on every other piece. Links in a chain, so to speak.
BUT, the good news is, springs are NOT that expensive, and neither are shocks. So, if I were to start anywhere, I'd start there. ONLY if the car fails the push test.
Change the leaf spring bushings and the differential bushing.
All easy to do and really makes a difference.
Shocks are easy also.
I used rubber bushings to eliminate possible squeaks and Autozone Gabriel Ultra shocks and couldn't be more happy.
Done our annual "drag Main" last night and drove around for 4 hours and the ride was perfect.
Front end suspension kit, ball joints, a-arm bushings, tie rod ends, idler arm etc, $300.00
Front Moog springs, shorter than stock, $60.00
Front sway bar bushings and links, $30.00
Rear steel spring liners, $30.00
Delco Shocks, $140.00
Borgeson steering box, $700.00
Trailing arm bolt and shims, $60.00
Front end alignment, $120.00
The best thing I remember doing to my C3 is having it drive straight, Conner great, quiet ride, quick steering and no leaks on the garage floor.
Get it over with and you will have fun driving the car!
Should have mentioned the Brakes - you need brakes to be safe.
Last edited by mikep3; Oct 2, 2011 at 09:10 PM.
Reason: Forgot brakes
I would say just wait until you do it all. If you are going as far as changing bushings you will have to have it all apart anyways so you might as well do it all at that time. One bushing you could change that probably needs to be changed is the front differential bushing (some refer to it as the snubber bushing) as these get worn out the increase the amount of squat in the rear and in my case caused rattles.
I read that the snubber bushing recommendation is to go with rubber but poly is also available. Should I stick with stock rubber?
I read that the snubber bushing recommendation is to go with rubber but poly is also available. Should I stick with stock rubber?
I just finished removing the rattling polly bushings in my front controll arms and rear snubber. The only good thing was the polly bushings were easy to remove from the controll arms, they almost fell apart .
They were terrible .
JMO Bill