1968 427/400 Cooling
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,079
Likes: 315
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
After you get that Top Flight ribbon, switch from a ported vacuum source to a full manifold vacuum source for your distributor vacuum advance. Your engine will love it and run cooler. Who gives a rats azz about emissions anyways.........enjoy driving it.
Last edited by Faster Rat; Jun 21, 2012 at 01:36 PM.
Advanced
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 89
Likes: 11
From: Brooklyn, Ohio
I had the same problem. I did everything new shroud, shroud extension, seals, thermostat (with hole drilled in it), new fan clutch... Nothing worked, some things made a little difference but nothing that would make the car stop over heating. I would stop at a light in the summer and i would watch the temp gauge rise. Also if i held on to the shifter, not the ball at the top the shaft that comes up through the floor, it was hot. All the time talking to a friend who owns a restoration shop and he was telling me the timing is not right and i need to advance it. Long story short I email Lars to get his paper on timing read it until i understood it. I then set the timing up per his recommendations and it's like night and day. It's running cool, I can grab the shifter and it's just warm. So far so good one more test today it's supposed to be in the upper ninety's i will go for a ride tonight when i get home from work. I'm confident that the problem is pretty much resolved.
Where can i get the timing documentation you mentions from Lars on timing. I also am having an issue with over heating on my 68. I do have to install new heater core and hoses, as the previous caretaker cur the heater core out of the cooling circuit and looped that from the intake to the water pump. The radiator in the care right now is a griffen aluminum rad. seals seem to be all there around the shroud. It does have a MSD ignition.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,744
Likes: 2,585
Where can i get the timing documentation you mentions from Lars on timing. I also am having an issue with over heating on my 68. I do have to install new heater core and hoses, as the previous caretaker cur the heater core out of the cooling circuit and looped that from the intake to the water pump. The radiator in the care right now is a griffen aluminum rad. seals seem to be all there around the shroud. It does have a MSD ignition.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,417
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
I wonder if the block is essentially untouched. The block is 57 years old. The water passages are very likely covered in rust scale of some unknown thickness. I would imagine this contributes to a lack of cooling capability. I've seen a YouTube video were someone fills the block coolant passages with an acid solution acid, during block restoration, to clean out the passages.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,506
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
I wonder if the block is essentially untouched. The block is 57 years old. The water passages are very likely covered in rust scale of some unknown thickness. I would imagine this contributes to a lack of cooling capability. I've seen a YouTube video were someone fills the block coolant passages with an acid solution acid, during block restoration, to clean out the passages.
