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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 08:20 PM
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Default Question on brakes

I had the rear calipers removed to put in new trailing arm bushings. I got aggravated by fighting the brake line, and took it loose from the junction block on the drivers side to get it out of the way. I did end up draining the master.

Got her all put back together, and refilled the master cylinder. I couldn't get any fluid to gravity flow to the rear bleeders. I waited about half an hour. I took a piece of clear fish tank tubing and made a rigged adapter to plug into the caliper bleeder holes. I sucked on the line until I got brake fluid flowing from all 4 bleeders. I let each bleeder go for about 10 minutes before I closed them up.

Took the car out for a short ride. The brake pedal feels about the same as it was before. Maybe even a lil better. The problem is it seems to lock up the fronts on soft sand. It didn't do that before I don't think.

Is there a way to determine how much front brake vs rear brake your getting?

Tia......Dave
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Old Oct 15, 2011 | 09:58 PM
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If you drained the master cylinder you need to do a bench bleed on the master cylinder. You can do it with the cyliner mounted in the car if you jack the car up enough that the master cylinder is level. You can do another bleed of the lines after that is done.



Rick B.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:44 AM
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Thanks 72. I'll be giving that a try here shortly.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:56 AM
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The 1979 model has a brake proportioning valve. Is your dash brake light on? Here is a link to a discussion of the valve.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...et-switch.html
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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Thanks for that link Mel. That answered some questions for sure.

Following what was discussed in that thread, I hit my brake pedal hard, and it must have centered the proportioning valve, and I lost most of my pedal. That was a good thing, as not having back brakes and a half full pedal is not good.

I bled the master, and went through a quart and a half of brake fluid by both gravity bleeding, and by having someone press the brake pedal, and me cracking the bleeders loose. I'm convinced there is no air in the lines. I even tapped the calipers lightly with a hammer as they were bleeding out fluid. Still no decent pedal when the car was running. Pedal was great without starting it up.

I was slowly losing my pedal over the last month before I took things apart, and thats with all new calipers, and brake lines. I ordered a new master today. The rear half of the master was not working right.
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 08:00 PM
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What do you guys consider good brake pedal? After replacing the master, and re bleeding all 4 wheels, I have great brakes. I feel safe in driving the car again.

My concern is the amount of travel in the pedal. If I mash on it really hard just sitting with the car running, I can get it about 2 inches from its nearest point to the floorboard, although it would grab WAY before that point.

Is this as good as I can expect, or should I pursue it further to try and get more?
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 05:01 PM
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Default 1989 c4 corvette

hey there can anyone help me pls i was driven my corvette last night was going good then went and parked for a while and after that i started and wen i was driven the brakes went hard can anyone tell me y.
thanks so much
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by avicorvetteman
hey there can anyone help me pls i was driven my corvette last night was going good then went and parked for a while and after that i started and wen i was driven the brakes went hard can anyone tell me y.
thanks so much
You are better off doing a search first and then starting a new thread rather than hijacking this one. If you have a C4 you would be better off posting in that forum anyway.



Rick B.
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