Engine Stand Question
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Instructor
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 140
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From: Las Vegas NV
Engine Stand Question
Ok, a stupid question from a newbie (what the heck am I getting into! :confused: ).
I'm about to pull my BB (almost there, this'll be today), I've got a stand, where will I hook up the mounting plate and arms (the "spider") to? What size bolts do I need to get?
Thanks!
David
'74 454 all stock
I'm about to pull my BB (almost there, this'll be today), I've got a stand, where will I hook up the mounting plate and arms (the "spider") to? What size bolts do I need to get?
Thanks!
David
'74 454 all stock
Moderator
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 7,117
Likes: 51
From: Dove Mountain Arizona
Re: Engine Stand Question (djlangford)
Remove the flywheel and hook the 4 spider legs up to the block where the bell housing attaches to. You use the bolt holes that will keep it balanced. The length of the bolts should be such that you have enough threads to keep it securely attached to the block (4-5 threads in the block, minimum). :cheers:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 16
From: absecon nj
Re: Engine Stand Question (MasterDave)
there 3/8 bolts length depends on your type of stand,make sure its rated for a big block too..i have several that are light weight ones and even a small block they sag..i finally buily my own that will handle anything i use on it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Re: Engine Stand Question (djlangford)
If you don't already have a stand...or intend to rent one, then make sure you the stand allows you to spin the engine 306 degrees...this allows you to do hone the cylinders, then spin the engine around and install the crank without having somebody hold the crank up while installing some bearing caps to keep it from falling.
The engine bolts to the stand with the same threaded holes that the transmission bell housing bolts to. You will need longer bolts though...but the thread size will be the same as the tranny bolts. The stand should come with a set of bolts for several makes and models...if not you should wait until you get the stand so you know how long to get.
The engine bolts to the stand with the same threaded holes that the transmission bell housing bolts to. You will need longer bolts though...but the thread size will be the same as the tranny bolts. The stand should come with a set of bolts for several makes and models...if not you should wait until you get the stand so you know how long to get.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 5
From: Lake Villa IL
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Contributor
Re: Engine Stand Question (djlangford)
I bought my stand from Advance Auto Parts. I think I spent $39.00 for it. It did not come with bolts. I had to go to the hardware store to buy some. They were not easy to find. I believe Summit offers a bolt kit, and the better stands come with bolt kits.
Make sure you have the stand assembled the right way. This sounds stupid, but I spent a year with a mis-assembled stand that would not rotate 360 degrees. Read the directions carefully!
:yesnod:
Make sure you have the stand assembled the right way. This sounds stupid, but I spent a year with a mis-assembled stand that would not rotate 360 degrees. Read the directions carefully!
:yesnod:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,831
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From: Austin TX
Re: Engine Stand Question (djlangford)
They're 3/8 NC threads. That's the regular "coarse" thread. Use grade 8
bolts to be safe. You can get 'em at Ace or whatever hardware store
you use. They're the gold color ones and they have 6 "stripes" on
the top of the heads. To see what length you need you want to measure
the distance from the point where you insert the bolt to the point where
the arms touch the block and add about 3/4 inch. The hardware store
will only have 'em in half inch lengths so you might end up a little long.
Just use washers under the bolts and you'll be fine. Off the top of
my head I can't remember but I'd guess tighten 'em to about 40 lbs.
You can look up the bellhousing torque value to be sure.
The idea on mounting your block to the stand is to try and set things
up so that the block's center of gravity is in line with the stand's
swivel point. This will change depending when the heads and intake
are on or off. When you have it set up right you'll be able to spin
the block pretty easy.
bolts to be safe. You can get 'em at Ace or whatever hardware store
you use. They're the gold color ones and they have 6 "stripes" on
the top of the heads. To see what length you need you want to measure
the distance from the point where you insert the bolt to the point where
the arms touch the block and add about 3/4 inch. The hardware store
will only have 'em in half inch lengths so you might end up a little long.
Just use washers under the bolts and you'll be fine. Off the top of
my head I can't remember but I'd guess tighten 'em to about 40 lbs.
You can look up the bellhousing torque value to be sure.
The idea on mounting your block to the stand is to try and set things
up so that the block's center of gravity is in line with the stand's
swivel point. This will change depending when the heads and intake
are on or off. When you have it set up right you'll be able to spin
the block pretty easy.
