Courtesy light door switch question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 455
Likes: 7
From: Lewes Delaware
Courtesy light door switch question
Trouble shooting my courtesy lights today and found a corroded and broken hot lead on the drivers side courtesy light door switch (white wire), it also has a black lead that I assume is a ground. I pulled the passenger side switch to look at it and see that it only had a single hot lead. Is this correct?
The initial problem I was having is that the bulb would not light when in the courtesy light socket and the doors open. There is a orange wire and a white wire that are both hot regardless if the switches are engaged or not. I would assume that when the door is closed and the switch engaged the white hot lead would be off. Any advise is always much appreciated!
The initial problem I was having is that the bulb would not light when in the courtesy light socket and the doors open. There is a orange wire and a white wire that are both hot regardless if the switches are engaged or not. I would assume that when the door is closed and the switch engaged the white hot lead would be off. Any advise is always much appreciated!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 6
From: Austin Tx
The switches work by providing ground. When the plunger is out, the switch provides a ground thru the switch into the frame where it's plugged in.
On the drivers side there are 2 wires. One is for the coutesy lights, and the other is for the key buzzer. I believe the one for the courtesy lights is white. It should be hot, and when grounded the courtesy lights should come on. I believe the one for the key buzzer is black, it should be hot when the key is in the ignition, and when grounded in that state a buzzer should come on.
On the passenger side there is only the one wire for the courtesy lights.
Orange wires are always hot. There should be one going to the clock, and another going to the lighter. Im not sure if there are others, but there definatly shouldn't be a loose one.
On the drivers side there are 2 wires. One is for the coutesy lights, and the other is for the key buzzer. I believe the one for the courtesy lights is white. It should be hot, and when grounded the courtesy lights should come on. I believe the one for the key buzzer is black, it should be hot when the key is in the ignition, and when grounded in that state a buzzer should come on.
On the passenger side there is only the one wire for the courtesy lights.
Orange wires are always hot. There should be one going to the clock, and another going to the lighter. Im not sure if there are others, but there definatly shouldn't be a loose one.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 455
Likes: 7
From: Lewes Delaware
Ok, trying to wrap my mind around this. I understand basic electrical principals of a hot lead into a bulb and a ground or neutral lead out. The electricity passes through the bulb causing it to glow and then out. I can't quite figure 2 hot leads (white and orange) into the bulb with the white hooked to a switch that engages the ground. I could see if the white were neutral and then when the door is open it is grounded and the circuit complete.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 455
Likes: 7
From: Lewes Delaware
The drivers side socket had to be replaced (broken) so I have the orange and white wire stripped. I connect a test light to the orange and ground it and my test light comes on. Same with the white wire. Did this on both sides and get the same results.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 455
Likes: 7
From: Lewes Delaware
So I got to thinking that having the white wires alway hot was wrong. I started going through all of my bulbs and connections, anywhere where I might have a orange/white wire short circuit. Low and behold I found it! The cargo light was the culprit. The PO must have twisted the housing and wired when he re-installed it. Un-twisted them and bingo..all circuits good.
