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Coil Wire Resister

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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 02:50 PM
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Default Coil Wire Resister

I have a Mallory electronic ignition installed in My 1971 Corvette.
I need to remove the resister in the Coil wire to get 12 volts to the coil.
Right now it's runnning aprox 7 volts to the coil.
I need to know where to find the the resister in the coil wire?
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 04:57 PM
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The wire itself is a resistance wire. Look in your fuse box for a blank spot named IGN and get your powere from there.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
The wire itself is a resistance wire. Look in your fuse box for a blank spot named IGN and get your powere from there.
Yup. What he said.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 11:58 PM
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The resistor wire is a white cotton insulated wire that goes to your coil. You'll need to take it out of play.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
The wire itself is a resistance wire. Look in your fuse box for a blank spot named IGN and get your powere from there.
So you are saying replace the wire with a new connection to the fuse box. I noticed there seems to be 2 wires on the same lead running
to the coil.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 11:01 AM
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The other wire goes to the starter solenoid. It is there to supply 12 volts durong the cranking process. Once you let go of the key, that wire is no longer hot, and the wire that comes from the other side supplies the lower voltage.
Just a note, I recently replaced my engine wiring harness, and when I checked while starting the car for the first time, there was 12 volts to the coil all the time. THERE WAS NOT A VOLTAGE DROP, NO RESISTANCE IN THE WIRE. Because I do not run points, this was not a problem, but something you may want to check when replacing the wiring harness.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by tmlynarczyk
so you are saying replace the wire with a new connection to the fuse box.
yes
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 09:44 AM
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I didn't even remove it. I just left it there on the coil and added a new (additional) 12 volt source from the fuse box. Rev's jumped 200 RPM's instantly with the added wire. If there ever was a need (or desire) to change it back to a points system, the original wire is still there.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 10:37 AM
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i read on this subject for three hours yesterday,most say to wire directaly from fuse box.theres a spot that says ign. just wire some 12 ga. from ign. to the batt. side of dist. cap.thats it. but whoever wired mine used a wire right out of harness,kinda under the wiper motor along with the white resister wire,both going to the batt. connection on side of dist. cap.it seems to work ok. but i do have a hot start problem,and have been thinking this wiring may be the issue.wish i knew.i might do the direct wire soon. good luck,tom.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 10:47 AM
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oh ya,not exactly sure if you need 8,10 or 12 ga. wire from fuse box to dizzy.check into it.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 11:43 AM
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I would suggest to carry a set of points, condenser and coil with you. My electronics conversion took a dump on me 175 miles from home on an interstate. I was not carrying the above mentioned parts with me, but luckily my travel buddies were. We pushed the car into a nearby rest stop and converted back to points. I will not be returning to after market electronic conversion.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 06:46 PM
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so does runing the white resister wire along with a 12 volt wire cause any problems,assuming you are using an existing 12 volt factory wire set up,like hot starts,damage to coil,etc... thanks alot.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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What I did on my 71 was unplug the wire harness and cut the resistor wire as close to the plug end of the harness as practical. Then I sliced a 12 gauge copper wire to the plug end of the resistor wire and ran it to the positive terminal for the coil. The resistor wire was removed from the coil, taped up, and moved aside; the connection at the starter was not touched. This setup gives me nearly 12 volts (11.90) at the coil and does not seem to trouble the Pertonix module or coil I installed. If you go this route, be careful to identify the correct wire. The wire diagram identifies the wire as 20 W/R/B but the wire was covered by a white cloth like insulator (the color may have faded with age) on my car. The wire itself is silver and rather stiff.

hope this helps

Pat
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 03:13 PM
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So orginal resistance wire was 20ga, but 12ga is recommended? I'm just about to do this myself?

r,
Rob
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Postal123
So orginal resistance wire was 20ga, but 12ga is recommended? I'm just about to do this myself?

r,
Rob
The original resistance wire was 20ga, but the manufacturer of the coil I was installing recommended a 12 ga wire to the position terminal so that is what I used. Also, make sure you remove the wire running from the starter to the positive terminal on the coil if you haven't done so already. You won't need it with a 12v feed to the coil. Tape over the contact (on the wire) and set it aside.

Sorry so slow answering...this was my opportunity to log on.

Pat
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by wheatpj
The original resistance wire was 20ga, but the manufacturer of the coil I was installing recommended a 12 ga wire to the position terminal so that is what I used. Also, make sure you remove the wire running from the starter to the positive terminal on the coil if you haven't done so already. You won't need it with a 12v feed to the coil. Tape over the contact (on the wire) and set it aside.

Sorry so slow answering...this was my opportunity to log on.

Pat
I left the connection at the starter in place but removed it from the positive terminal of the coil and taped over the connection on the wire.

hopefully I haven't been too confusing

Take care

pat
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 03:37 AM
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Wheatpj, not confusing at all...it actually clarifies things for me. Thanks for the tips.
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 69'Silver
I would suggest to carry a set of points, condenser and coil with you. My electronics conversion took a dump on me 175 miles from home on an interstate. I was not carrying the above mentioned parts with me, but luckily my travel buddies were. We pushed the car into a nearby rest stop and converted back to points. I will not be returning to after market electronic conversion.
If his Mallory is like my Mallory (HyFire IV), the system retains the stock points and coil, but no real current passes through the points that now only serve as an electrical switch to trigger on the Mallory box.

Going back to stock is simply a matter of unplugging the Mallory box and putting the Mallory-supplied jumper into the harness, and in my case, unplugging a connection that by-passes the ballast resistor to put the resistor back in the current path.
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 12:54 AM
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I realize this post has died out a bit, but I'm running a standard copper 12ga wire, at the moment from coil + to the fuse block. I separated the fuse block in a attempt to remove the pin (of the original white resistance wire) so I could solder the new wire to pin and re-install.

I'm familiar with common pin/block set-up, but can't seem to get this sucker out...have other been successful? Should I just attach to the IGN pin on the other block (accessed from interior? Just wanting a quality set-up when done...I will have to tap into the fuse block for a few other items as well.

Apologies for the 'dumb' questions...thanks in advance.

r,
Rob
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 10:35 AM
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Just connect it to a ignition switched connection (don't forget to fuse it) on the fuse box under the dash. The existing resistor wire can be left connected without any problems.
That's what I did.
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