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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 11:05 AM
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Default lowering suspension

hi? I have a 82 corvette. It time for suspension work. I want lower approximately /between 1 to 2 inches
I want to lower car front and rear but i need your help, advice, guidance and DIY instructions.
What do i need to do to lower the front and what parts do i need? How much should i cut or where should i cut d spring?
How do i lower the rear and what parts do i need to lower it? What do i need to install on the car for aligning the front and rear? How long of a bolt do i need?
Do i need a traction bar and is there clearance under the car after lowering for a traction bar? Traction bar to stop wheel hop. Car HP is below 300.
What rim size will fit on the car after lowering?
Is it a good idea to lower the car or not?
What is the difficult level to do this job? I am mechanical incline. I lower japanese cars all the time.
All instructions and pictures will be helpful.
This car is not for track but i want it to look good and handles better. thanks for all your inputs
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 12:07 PM
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I'll probably get kicked around for this....

I lowered my car about 2 inches by cutting a coil out of the front springs (using a die cutter, not a torch). Then I put a stiffer composite spring in the back and longer spring bolts ( the ones that tie the spring to the trailing arm assemblies).

I'm very pleased with the ride and handling is still on par for a C3. It feels a bit tighter, but I doubt it really is. What really pleases me is the way the tires now fill the wheel wells. I use 18" rims, but the rubber is calculated to be about the same as stock rubber in diameter.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RobbSalzmann
I'll probably get kicked around for this....

I lowered my car about 2 inches by cutting a coil out of the front springs (using a die cutter, not a torch). Then I put a stiffer composite spring in the back and longer spring bolts ( the ones that tie the spring to the trailing arm assemblies).

I'm very pleased with the ride and handling is still on par for a C3. It feels a bit tighter, but I doubt it really is. What really pleases me is the way the tires now fill the wheel wells. I use 18" rims, but the rubber is calculated to be about the same as stock rubber in diameter.
Love the color and stance. Nice Job. What is the color?
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 01:27 PM
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I have 550# springs up front and 360# composite in rear with 8" bolts. Lowered mine approximately 1". You could go with 10" bolts, but you have to be very careful about tire clearance and possibly dragging suspension if you have a flat. Do an advanced search here on forum about those issues and potential dangers. If I were cutting front springs I would do a little at a time (1/4 coil) until I get the desired height. I run 255x60x15 tires on rally wheels with no rubbing. i don't think I would lower any farther; I have dragged my oil pan drain plug once while pulling out of drive that was sloped on both sides. No problems with speed bumps. I wouldn't fool with the traction bars if it were me for your power range; if you are just going for the look, clean your rear end up and remove spare tire carrier if spare is no concern. For performance, just make sure all your bushings, bearings, tie rods, ball joints, etc. are in good condition or replace. Also check steering box and coupler for play as well.





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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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For the rear I too installed longer bolts, I think 10 inches long.I think I got them from VB&P. I run with a 7 leaf steel spring but no issues. On the front I'm rebuilding the suspension now and will be installing new 550 lb springs which are already about an inch or so shorter than stock. I have 17" wheels all the way around.






Last edited by Frankenvette; Oct 26, 2011 at 01:36 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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Thanks

House Of Kolor Brandywine Kandy over Galaxy Grey Metallic.

Originally Posted by 929nitro
Love the color and stance. Nice Job. What is the color?
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RobbSalzmann
Thanks

House Of Kolor Brandywine Kandy over Galaxy Grey Metallic.
Thanks
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 06:54 PM
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Frankenvette, Are my eyes playing tricks on me or are the jam nuts on your strut rods loose? They look like they're tightened to the rod end.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RobbSalzmann
Frankenvette, Are my eyes playing tricks on me or are the jam nuts on your strut rods loose? They look like they're tightened to the rod end.
I took the pics right after lowering the car so the jamb nuts are probably loose. At this point I was not driving the car
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 11:50 PM
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i need DIY instructions on how to remove the front spring and steps on how to remove rear bolt and install longer bolt. How much should i lock or thread up d bolt.
Should i buy new spring for the front or just cut the oem spring? how long of a rear bolt do i need? i have an eight bolt .
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by rzkas
i need DIY instructions on how to remove the front spring and steps on how to remove rear bolt and install longer bolt. How much should i lock or thread up d bolt.
Should i buy new spring for the front or just cut the oem spring? how long of a rear bolt do i need? i have an eight bolt .
Lowering the rear is fairly easy, you just need to be careful, as springs, both front and rear, have a lot of stored energy.


In either case, get the car well off the ground, but securely, on jack stands. The rear spring needs to be compressed a little, by using a floor jack and a block of wood under the end of the spring. After getting a little slack between the bolt and the cushions, the bolt can be removed, and a longer one put in it's place.

In the front, a spring compressor is highly recommended. One thing to note on the front coils, the ends "locate" in notches in the frame, on top, and the lower arm, on the bottom. When cutting front coils, you need to remove an equal amount of the coil from each end, so the spring will still locate properly.

In other words, if you want to cut 1/2 coil, you take 1/4 coil off each end of the spring.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 11:47 AM
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which route gives better ride and control. Cutting oem spring or buying the 550lb spring? Has anyone lower their 82 corvette with the 550lb spring? What is the drop and how is the ride?
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rzkas
which route gives better ride and control. Cutting oem spring or buying the 550lb spring? Has anyone lower their 82 corvette with the 550lb spring? What is the drop and how is the ride?
A lot depends on the current ride height of your car. You originally stated that you wanted to drop the car 1-2". That's quite a difference in ride height. Keep in mind, that as you lower the car, you lose suspension travel. 1", and you might get by with trimming the OE springs 1/2-3/4 of a coil. Anything more than that, and I think you'd need a stiffer spring than OE, just to keep you off the bumpstops.


One other thing to consider, your car is an '82. I'll assume that you might not be the original owner, therefore, do you know if the current springs are indeed OE? Are there any of the GM tags still on them?
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 12:52 PM
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i will check the front spring. How do i measure the height? is it from the ground to the fender or from the top of the tire to d fender
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 02:23 PM
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Where are you located ?? There is usually someone around that has done this sorta thing... Or a Corvette club that has lot's of experienced members...
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rzkas
which route gives better ride and control. Cutting oem spring or buying the 550lb spring? Has anyone lower their 82 corvette with the 550lb spring? What is the drop and how is the ride?
A 550 lb front spring will make your baby ride like a cement truck. For the track, that's fine. (They have also been known to crack the spring towers on occasion). You might not be happy with them on the street. You would need to balance that with a 360 lb rear spring. That combination was origionally known as the "Daytona" spring package, designed to keep the suspension from bottoming out on the high banked corners of the race track.
IMHO, for a street car, just make sure the stock suspension parts are all good first. Then put decent sized sway bars on it, (maybe 1" front and 5/8" rear, or 1 1/8" and 3/4", respectively) and good shocks. Put some modern tires on her. Get a good 4 wheel alignment from a real mechanic, and you, your car and your wallet will be better off. IMHO.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by gcusmano74
A 550 lb front spring will make your baby ride like a cement truck. For the track, that's fine. (They have also been known to crack the spring towers on occasion). You might not be happy with them on the street. You would need to balance that with a 360 lb rear spring. That combination was origionally known as the "Daytona" spring package, designed to keep the suspension from bottoming out on the high banked corners of the race track.
IMHO, for a street car, just make sure the stock suspension parts are all good first. Then put decent sized sway bars on it, (maybe 1" front and 5/8" rear, or 1 1/8" and 3/4", respectively) and good shocks. Put some modern tires on her. Get a good 4 wheel alignment from a real mechanic, and you, your car and your wallet will be better off. IMHO.
I too thought it would ride to rough and have yet to actual drive with my 550 lb springs. I purchased from Van Steel and had a very long conversation with him about the harshness of these springs. I was also purchasing a whole new front suspension. I was thinking of going with the 460 touring springs. He advised me that there would not be that much of a difference in ride quality. I've also read from others that the 550 lb springs were not as harsh as one may think. This is somewhat subjective but then again vettes were not know for there smooth ride anyway. Just my humble opinion.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by U17
Where are you located ?? There is usually someone around that has done this sorta thing... Or a Corvette club that has lot's of experienced members...
I live in everett / seattle washington
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rzkas
i will check the front spring. How do i measure the height? is it from the ground to the fender or from the top of the tire to d fender
For a quick reference point, you measure from the ground to the top of the fender opening, at the center point of the wheel. If you really want an accurate reference point, you use the center point of the inner pivot bolt of the lower control arm.




BTW, the last time I did a spring change on a C-3, I installed VPB 360 lb/in springs in the front, and their 330 lb/in glass spring in the rear. I cut approximately 1/2 coil off the front springs to get the ride height I wanted.

Last edited by leadfoot4; Oct 27, 2011 at 05:52 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Frankenvette
I too thought it would ride to rough and have yet to actual drive with my 550 lb springs. I purchased from Van Steel and had a very long conversation with him about the harshness of these springs. I was also purchasing a whole new front suspension. I was thinking of going with the 460 touring springs. He advised me that there would not be that much of a difference in ride quality. I've also read from others that the 550 lb springs were not as harsh as one may think. This is somewhat subjective but then again vettes were not know for there smooth ride anyway. Just my humble opinion.
I've never understood the comments that 550# springs will make it ride harsh. I have the Van Steel Street and Slalom setup with 550# up front and the 360# composite in rear with Bilstein shocks all around. It drives and feels great. It may depend on the road conditions where you live. Here in Tennessee, roads are pretty good and I've never regretted the upgrade. I bought a sports car, not a Cadillac. I'm not knocking the stock suspension which I think is very good. I was just looking for a little more control and feel of the road.
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