Small block stroker or Big block






An oft promoted myth is that a BB vette can't be made to handle. If you offset the weight difference as mentioned above, cost is the real issue when stepping up to a big block, especially if you intend on any serious revs. That said, there may be other options, but there's no substitute for a genuine BBC.
Many here will argue...

I'm just sayin'....
I am in the middle of my resto-mod... I kept the SB (numbers matching block) and I am going the 383 stroker route. We (engine builder/consultant and I) are going with a Scat rotating assembly, aluminum heads, custom ground cam, intake and carb to feed it... All motor, well end up with enough power and torque to light up the 345's that will be on the back... I'll give you the final numbers later but we're looking at well over 450 lbs of torque and 500+HP.... with a torque curve so flat it's scary.
For the OP.... what did it cost me?
Less than $4K including the machining of the block on the rebuild. There are more costs, obviously than that... including the trans change to an automatic with O/D and the rear end. But if you go to a BB, you are making those changes as well. In the end, I am comparing engine to engine. If I change to a serpentine system (deciding on that now) the ticket will go up a bit to about $4,900 or so. I am doing the assembly work...
On last note... if you go to a BB you will need to change the suspension as well. You will need heavier springs to make it handle. Not impossible to make it happen... but you will need to spend on suspension.
Thanks to all. A lot of things to consider.






With a few aluminum parts the weight difference goes away.
Go with the BB you will not regret it.
Once the SB is in the car you will always wonder what it would be like with the BB
Neal
Thanks to all. A lot of things to consider.
Now as to whether there is a difference between the 383 and the 350... of course! Especially if you compare a stock 350 to the "new" 383. Why? You are changing the rotating assembly, heads, cam, intake, carb and, most likely, the exhaust as well. The combination of the parts is the key... it's not just the change in displacement. As an example, the 350 cid in the 1977 was at about (for our purposes) 200 HP. Changin the above mentioned parts, I will end up at about 500 HP at the crank.
Could you get more power out of the 350 with new heads, cam, etc. Sure... but you will not be able to get to the numbers above because of the limitations of the pistons, crank and rods. Bottom line, there is more to a stroker than simply a larger displacement rotating assembly. There is a strength factor as well.
Could you do similar things with a big block. Needless to say. Yes. Could you get more HP and Torque... of course... but then you have to consider other factors. The main one is the added weight. A Chevy BB will weigh about 20% (about 100 to 150 lbs as mentioned) more than a 350 block. (assuming both have heads of the same matierials) And I would change the suspension because of it. That's my opinion... I am "old fashoined" in that sense... I was always taught to work from the ground up.... The weight distribution changes as does the needed spring rate to maintain the same ride height at the front. You can't just drop in a BB and expect the car to handle the same. Now add to that the plan to modify the BB as well... this a is problem. I have not even gotten to considerations of the trans, rear end and rear tires.
I am the first to say it... there is no substitute for displacement... sure a BB would be awesome... however... you have to consider everything and what you are willing to do.... or can do...
also as mentioned, the extra weight of the engine can be compensated for with springs and a rear sway bar. but then the problem of snap-spins rears it's ugly head. there have been many excellent posts made by knowledgeable members on this subject of "switching ends" suddenly.
so, if your heart is set on a bb, don't look to the forum for confirmation, just do it. but on the other hand if there's any doubt about the true cost differences between a sb and a bb, be assured that they are substantial. just my personal experience from having done both.





Last edited by MotorHead; Nov 1, 2011 at 01:35 PM.
The 540 of mine back on pg 1 was nearly $10k in just parts and machining alone with me doing all the assembly work. As the saying goes, speed costs - how fast do you want to go?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Oops, 4 Inch stroke. 5.7 - 6 inch rods.

I'm finishing up may last SBC, a Dart SHP based 427 with Brodix CNC'd heads, so not really a chevy. From here on out its LS based w/ EFI all the way.
Last edited by RobbSalzmann; Nov 1, 2011 at 11:45 AM.





As for LS engines they are very good for making power and having good fuel mileage as well. Their parts costs are slightly less than BBC stuff. They are very easy to make killer power and retain the drive-ability. I have a 383 stroker Ls6 in my 2001 Z06 and it makes 502 rwhp and 692 rwhp on nitrous. The car was a daily driver until recently.
The standard SBC is probably the most cost effective to modify. The parts are readily available and power can be made. In comparison to the LS you will have less drive-ability with a highly modified SBC to make certain power requirements. Now to make power and keep drive-ability you will have to go to a stroker 383, 427, etc. That will cause a reduction in mileage.
That is my brief summary on everything. Hope it helps you choose, but really you have to just ask yourself what do you want and what is your goals.
Cost creeps up doing a 396 or larger. 400 got a little more block work to do webbing on block not quite as strong unless you go aftermarket.
Goals+usage+budget then carefully research
Finishing my last Gen1sbc almost dont want to put it in it will be another overbuilt deal that probably will eat the valvetrain prematurely.
A Carbd LSx454 is the next wet dream over here.
Cubes, tech and light packaging all in one.
Last edited by bluedawg; Nov 1, 2011 at 02:57 PM.






Also shaft RR make the drivetrain so stable I have had to adjust the solid roller rockers in 2 years.

I have over $15,000 in parts alone, I built it in my basement and makes more power than a C6Z06 427 I here are the dyno pulls for mine and 427ci C6Z06 and the drivetrain of the C6 doesn't lose 20% like mine, it's more like 12%. That is one reason they seem to make more power. And mine wasn't tuned, one pull just to see, I had Car Chemestry baffles in the exhaust pipes and they are gone now plus I have bigger headers. I will take it to my buddies shop and have them dyno tune it, no matter what they do it will make allot more power

Way better heads, I guess you haven't seen what AFR had been putting out lately let alone the 400+cfm Little Chiefs or maybe you are not familiar with them.
I took my Vette to a shop that specializes in LS Corvettes, they have some S/C Vette putting out over 1000HP. There were a few people in the shop when I made a dyno pull and after they were asking how much nitrous I was using ( mines just got a carb ). The owner of the shop said and I quote "Looks like the Gen 1 small block is still alive and well"
Last edited by MotorHead; Nov 1, 2011 at 01:37 PM.
Why are you showing me pictures of your little m? It is a AFTERMARKET BLOCK!!! I can just as easy show off the LSX block in my shop right now and tell you how great it is too. and cost 500 bucks less.
Little chiefs are unconventional valve angle heads that require Expensive shaft rockers and offset solid lifters. The thread here is a $$$ to HP compairison and your throwing out top notch aftermarket stuff at the guy? if thats the case a mild built 496 bbc will get you in the 9's with off the self heads low compression and a .700 lift cam, and way out flow little cheif heads.





You can get 1100HP out a set of Little Chief's in a sub 400ci motor, that will eat a big block 496 let alone your big block with all the power adders you need. I think maybe to make things more equal I'll slap on a set of AllPro heads to get closer to the 15deg heads the LS7 has, they should bump up the HP with 420cfm intake and 300cfm exhaust.
We will see who's thumping their chest's when you get your motor together that has to use power adders to make any good times.
And I wasn't even close to 11's it was very high 12's It might run faster with slicks but I doubt it

Mine wasn't built for racing, just putting around town, big difference between building a race engine and cruising engine, I could easily get more power out my motor but drivability would suffer and my 24mpg on the the highway wouldn't be there.
Last edited by MotorHead; Nov 1, 2011 at 04:02 PM.














