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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 07:23 PM
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Default opinons on brake fluid.

I'm at crossroads.I bought a complete set of wilwood calibers and SS flex lines new in the box have yet to install..I already have dot 5 in it.I'm already having fun bleeding air out of it.Should I rebuild my new mastercylinder and flush out the lines and put in dot4 or keep what I got.I only drive it on the street.No road racing.I have plenty of dot 5 fluid already and my diaphragm press bleeder has dot 5 in it also.So it would require a bit of work to convert back to dot 4.Worth it or not.By the way I have a brand new set of rebuilt lonestar o ringed calibers I might be selling.Less than a hundred miles on them.Only catch is they have had dot.5 fluid run through them.Still have the receipt where I bought them a few months ago.

Last edited by rugerm44; Oct 28, 2011 at 07:28 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 11:23 PM
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No reason not to run Dot 5. I just installed the Wilwood kit on my car and they bled easily. In fact I was able to gravity bleed them about 95% of the way, and then just got the last burp of air out with a little pedal pressure. Going SLOW is a good tip.

JIM
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 07:46 AM
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Never could get them to gravity bleed with the stock calibers.You satisfied with the performance of the silicone fluid.I haven't driven mine enough to judge the fluid yet.
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 08:52 AM
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I agree that there's no reason not to run DOT 5. I have in my car for all 6 years I've owned it. I bleed them with a motive power bleeder and everything works perfect. I driive about 2-3000 street miles every year.
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by rugerm44
Never could get them to gravity bleed with the stock calibers.You satisfied with the performance of the silicone fluid.I haven't driven mine enough to judge the fluid yet.
If you're not getting fluid to flow under gravity, 9 times out of 10 it is an air lock in the master cylinder and the master cylinder needs to be bled.

I run silicone and am happy with it.
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 09:43 AM
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No intention to hi-jack the thread, but how do you usually flush the beaking system to get rid of the DOT3/4 and make it ready for a DOT5 fluid?, is it just enough to pour a quart or two of a DOT5 and circulate it through the entire circuit for a few times? or am I have to take everything apart and clean them thoroughly?
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 10:10 AM
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I would replace all the seals and rubber hoses and then flush out the hard lines with denatured alcohol.Dot 5 hates dot 3.When you mix them it turns to jelly.Went through 2 new mastercylinders.Bench bleed it.Hooked up plugs to the outlets and brake pedal was good and hard.Seems if it had air trapped in it it would be spongy even with plugs.

Last edited by rugerm44; Oct 29, 2011 at 10:16 AM.
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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Mine has used Dot 5 for about 13-14 years. Never an issue.

JIM
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by HamadUP
No intention to hi-jack the thread, but how do you usually flush the beaking system to get rid of the DOT3/4 and make it ready for a DOT5 fluid?, is it just enough to pour a quart or two of a DOT5 and circulate it through the entire circuit for a few times? or am I have to take everything apart and clean them thoroughly?
The proportioning valve/switch won't flush. Portions of it are not "flow-thru".
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 07:45 AM
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Brand new.As everything else in the system.No brake light.Fluid flows from both ends.Thanks I wish it had been that simple.
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