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I'm planing on hopping up my C3. I'm thinking of the ZL-1 block now availible for chevy. I have never seen this block used in a build-up yet. Is there anything wrong with it other than the $4500 price :U ? Also, this car won't be solely a drag car but it will spent a few nights wasting ricers and the like at the track, in additon to cruiser duty. I have seen a few post about the rears in C3 not being the strongest things in the world, will it have trouble with 600 Hp? If it will the how did the L-88's and Baldwin Motion cars handle the power? what can I do to help it duribilty? Also any recommendation on the internal in the ZL-1 block would be welcomed. Looking for around 9.5-10:1 compression, aluminum head and a 6500 redline thanks for listening to the ramblings :chevy :chevy :chevy
Well, it's only money but if your not racing the car, there is little need for a Aluminum block. Weight saving is about 100lbs, and you can bulid on hell of an iron Big Block for the money of a ZL1 block alone. The rears in our C3 are fairly strong, it's when you start adding slicks and 500hp+ is where you run into trouble, soon or later it will give. 9:5:1-10:1 compression is AWEFULLY low for a aluminum block and headed engine especially a BB. Your almost defeating the purpose of justifying building shuch a high dollar motor and not building it to it's potenial. In fact if you only plan to run 9:5:1 compression the motor will not perform well, I believe L88"s and ZL1's had a 12:5:1 compression ratio. You have to run a certain compression ratio to get the power out of those motors. This is wgy L88's and ZL1's were "Race Ready" cars that nedded 104 octane just to idle.
If I had the moeny I'd do it in a hearbeat, I don't so mine made of iron.
Speed costs moeny........How fast do you want to go???
:cheers:
For the cost difference of that block you could have a real nice EFI system. That said, if you have the cash, why not! There is a thread on the strength of the rear ends going on right now. You know you could get a Tom's 12 bolt rear end for the cost difference of that block and an aftermarket iron block.
You should easily be able to get those compressions numbers from a iron BB for a fraction of the cost. THe 1970 LT-1 produces 370 rated hp with 11:1 from a small block. The key is in proper building.
The reason I'm looking at the ZL-1 block is because it'll weigh less then a small block with BB torque. Torque is goooooooood. I like cars that'll handle as well and slam my organs against the seat. The drivetrain i'm planning is an all aluminum BB with around 560 Hp, R.O.D tranny, and a 3.70 posi in the rear. :chevy. The stickiest tires I'll run will be Drag radials, unless ya'll say it won't hold. Then I'll stay with street tires. Any problems with this combination that you see please tell me 'fore any big mistakes :flag :reddevil Thanks again!?!?!?!
Ramblings,
Sounds like a cool project. With that much torque off the line I wouldn't use slicks. Have you thought about a big CI small block? You could build a 434 and still have enough money left over for an EFI. :cool:
Frank
Yah, unless you are not on a budget, there are other (cheaper) ways of doing that. None quite as cool as a ZL1 block though. My 434 small block should easily produce 560 hp. And with the tiny small block runners, it'll be a real torque beast. Engine Analyzer shows 600 hp @ 6000, 576 ft/lbs @ 5000, and 500+ ft/lbs from 3500 all the way to about 6250. With that extra $3000+ you can be running a real nice EFI system which would net a bit more torque and power - not to mention all the other benefits of EFI.
There was a guy in OKC, OK (actually lived in Yukon) when I lived there that had built a 69 ZL1 replica. He used the same block you're referring to. The only big difference I remember was the cam. I recall he used a more liveable cam, but everything else was built to ZL1 specs. He used RHS out of Houston, TX to build the motor...I beleive. I know the car was featured in the old mag "Shark Quarterly". I think all in all he said he had about $15K tied up in the motor (that was when the blocks were several grand more...and not too long after they were re-introduced). It was a lot of money, but when he pulled into a show...with a yellow 69 vette and a big black stripe with a fire breathing all aluminum 427 under the hood...lets just say...there wasn't much hope for the other cars to draw much attention. It was costly...but it was very high on the :cool: factor. Btw he was running a correct rear end for the car...although I'm not sure if he took it to the strip or not. I could find the guys contact info...if you're really interested in talking to him about it.
If you want an easy 600-700HP and totally streetable at reasonable cost how about a blower, supercharger or turbo's. Of the three I like the blower the best. It gives you full boost from idle on up, easy installation, and from the looks department nothing spells raw power like a 8-71 blower sticking through the hood. The turbo is the most efficient but the hardest to blumb in but it is the best off the line with limited traction . The supercharger is rpm related and only works with rpm.