Here's the situation.
I have replaced everything. New rotors, Calipers, Rubber and Steel lines and a rebuilt Master Cyl.
The only things I have re-used are the Power Booster and the Proportioning Valve.
The car is on Jack stands and does not have thew motor in it.
I have bench bled the master cyl till there were no more visible air bubbles and installed on car.
I am following the Haynes manual instructions, however I am doing this job myself and am using a long broom handle to heep the pedal pressed to the floor when the instructions told me to do so.
I bled the brakes in the pattern described in the Haynes manual. I cant see any more air bubbles coming from calipers.
Here's the question.
The pedal feels pretty firm, but should it be hard as a freekin rock???
When I pump the pedal, it stays firm, but it doesnt get harder to press. Is this normal?
As I saisd before, the engine is not in the car so I can hear a sucking noise coming from the power booster. I am assuming this is normal since the vac hose is not connected to anything. Also I am assuming the Power booster wont affect anything during the bleeding process because it is only used when the engine creates vacuum , Right?
I dont think I have any leaks in the system since I cannot detect any leaking fluid anywhere.
What should I do? :confused: :confused: :confused:
I can tell the brakes do work a bit since I cannot turn the tires when I depress the pedal ( broomhandle trick)
Should I keep bleeding them or what?

Stew

 

C'mon guys, I need help.

 

Stewart,

Sounds like you have it under control. Brakes aren't going to be hard as a rock, since you will compress them somewhat, just without the help of power assist. that's what the Haynes manual is talking about, bleeding the booster of vacuum. When you're ready totake the car onto the road, I wuld bleed them again with the 2-person method, preferably someone with a pretty strong foot. You're also goin to want to bleed them again after you drive it a bit. The very first time you take it on the road, be sure to drive around near the house, just in case .... :eek:

Hope this helps

 

Thanks jaf,
at least I know I'm not screwing things up.

 

A pretty big bubble can get trapped in the big rear fitting of the proportioning valve. Unfortunately, the usual way of getting that bubble out, twisting the proportioning valve, while all hooked up, until the rear fitting is above level, and bleeding that fitting, usually produces a cracked brake line - the long one that goes all the way to the rear of the car. I'm trying to figure a way to power bleed from the rear to eliminate the bubble. That bubble will DEFINITELY give you spongy brakes and a low pedal!

 

I think you have the system purged and it is probably fine. I have found myself looking for a soft pedal even when none exists although my brakes work great and have for a year+. My pedal is not hard as a rock. They feel like GM brakes of the 60's and 70's. I suggest the following non-scientific test: Drive your other car and see how those feel in comparison. I drive a '98 Ranger with 50k on it and have had it since new, and the brakes feel no harder than the Vette's.

 

Stewart,
Bleeding brakes properly is a big challenge on these cars.

The only way I've ever done it perfectly, is by pressure bleeding them. Bleeding per the Haynes will make your car driveable, but find a shop that has a pressure bleeder and have them done right afterwards.

(A pressure bleeder is a home made contraption that connects a large reservoir of brake fluid to your master cylinder, in place of the master cyl cap. Air pressure is applied to this reservoir, and then you simply go around and bleed each caliper. Fluid is replaced continuously from this pressurized source. Uses a lot of fluid, but gets every bubble out of every pocket.)

 

When I disconnected the power booster checking for vacuum leaks the pedal effort to stop the car was "astronomical". At speeds above 35 mph I could not push the pedal hard enough to stop it, it was more like a slow down.

Roger

 

Stewart,
A little trick I learned, as "someone" is pumping the pedal use a rubber hammer and tap the calipers it is supposed to dislodge the air bubbles then with a piece of 3/16 clear hose on a bleed screw into a bottle, open and watch as the pedal goes down. NO bubbles means NO air. I do mine all the time and this is my method.I always start in the back RR,LR then RF,LF go around the car two or three times. ..redvetracr

 

Sounds like everything is OK. But, when you get the booster hooked up you should bleed them again since pumping fluid through a non-boosted power brake may not force the fluid through fast enough to move all the bubbles out to the bleeder.

 

Thanks Guys.
It was driving me a little crazy.
Now, at least I know I have done things correctly.
Well, on to the next project :smash: