When engine is at normal operating temperature and you cut the car off it doesn't start. Checked to make sure plugs are firring and they are. Also checked to see if the plugs got wet from gas and they did not. I always through if you had fire and gas the car should run. I can let the engine cool off and it will start OK. When ruining it runs fine. Any ideas?

 

Classic signs of heat soaked starter. Sounds like a starter rebuild or replacement is in order.

You might also make sure the connections from the battery to the starter are clean and tight before rebuilding or replacing...always a possibility.

 

Not the starter replaced it with a mini starter. The car turns over but just won't start. Thanks

 

How long after you cut it off are you trying to restart?

Then how long if you wait will it start?

David

 

Can you take the air cleaner off and see if the carb will squirt any gas? If no gas, maybe vapor locking?

 

1. Do you have the correct steel fuel lines from fuel pump to carb?

2. Do you have the correct "thick" LT-1 carb gasket?

 

1. does it crank as fast hot as it does cold?
2. will it start immediately after shutting down or fail to start 10 minutes later?
3. check your accellerator pump right before you crank it, does it squirt gas?

remove your air cleaner and listen for percolating, or sizzling of gas after you shut it down hot. if your plugs are not wet then your gas might be boiling away so that it won't start 10 minutes later.

get you the biggest battery you can find, a 1000 cold cranking amp battery.
run a 160 degree thermostat
install a bypass under your exhaust manifold instead of the fllapper heat valve.
install a 1/4 inch phenolic carb spacer/insulator.

 

Did not use to have this problem. Two things have happened to the car had the starter replaced and the original carb rebuilt so the rebuilder may not have used the thicker gasket. Here is the answer to your questions. I cut the car off and try to restart the car instantly and it won't start. The accelerator pump squirts gas. The car turns over the same hot or cold. It has the single steel line and does not get near anything that gets real hot. After cutting off and wait one half hour and restart it will crank.

 

Joewill will a one quarter inch spacer go under the carb and still have clearance for the air cleaner. Is Your car a LT1? My car use to have no problems then the starter started acting up and was a heat related problem, my car has headers and was heating up the starter thus the mini starter. The carb was rebuilt and it made it run a lot better but then started having the restart problems. It seams to me if I have a vapor lock problem it would affect the car while going down the road or at stop lights.

 

Two things come to mind. One, Holley's have a tendency to leak gas out into the manifold when shut down hot. This causes temporary flooding. Try holding the pedal down until it starts, to clear the flood. Second, You changed to a mini starter. What did you do for a by-pass wire from the starter, or do you have transistor ignition?

 

I have seen a small crack and resultant carbon track on the inside of distributor cap cause an engine to not start when hot.

 

1. does it crank as fast hot as when it is cold? you did not answer this question..

if if fails to start because it does not crank fast enough then you have a starter problem, a weak battery problem, or a battery wire gauge or grounding problem.

the classic heat soak problem is when the starter gets hot, them more amps than are available are required to crank a hot motor and the classic slow cranking occurs.

don't go more than a 1/4 inch on a spacer/insulator or your hood might not close... of course test it first..put some silly putty on your air cleaner and test your clearance when closed.

 

My car has the orignal transistor ignition. If it is a temporay flood problem the plugs are not getting wet.

 

It seams to be no difference in the crank speed weather hot or cold. The battery does not crank the car very long before it gets weak and won't crank the car. Going to get a new battery and carb spacer. The car doesn't seam to crank at the same speed as it did with the original starter. Even though the battery cranks the car maybe a new battery would crank it at a faster speer.

 

They may not, just slam it to the floor and hold it. See what happens. It really is a typical Holley-itis symptom.

 

The carb has been rebuilt but the rebuilder could have mabe a mistake or used a bad part. I will try what you said the next time it won't start.

 

Reply to your first post; 1) Fire, 2) gas, and #3: Compression. Sounds to me like #3 could be the issue, check your compression, if it's not right and there's open valves when they shouldn't be you'll experience the issue you've described.

 

Recheck carburation for accelerator pump shot when hot. If good try flooring gas pedal 2-3 times when hot. TI amplifiers can be problamatic and heat is the enemy. Also check cranking voltages, if below 12vdc this can cause spark failures.

 

Hello Jack this is Joey.. Just an update . i got back from Power plant in Virginia last nite... i went by and looked at your car at Erics... I did a few checks on it and this is what i have found.... When car is cold it starts as it should, new cap, new rotor, wires are fine. No CARB leakdown at all.. THIS IS A VOLTAGE-SPARK PROBLEM>>>>. After 10 minutes of driving around the block and it is cut off it will not restart hot... Let it cool and the fire is back......

Please note that there is a small(very small) spark going thru spark tester hooked to plug... The Pink wire that should provide a 12 volt when cranking HOTT to TI is not there from starter. (thus new hi-tork starter..) but you were having this problem before starter replaced... Even Jumping 12v to pink wire at starter does nothing to improve voltage going to plugs..... I think that the coil is heat soaking and going south... Any ideas from other members greatly appreciated... I would like to do an MSD conversion on it for Reliability and Performance. Since you already have Headers on it now... Easily hid and looks stock when i get done.. Have done at least 50 different cars and everyone is more that happy with the performance., even with multiple carbs.....

Plus todays Gas sucks..... it also helps with cranking issues that ive found....

 

Hello Jack this is Joey.. Just an update . i got back from Power plant in Virginia last nite... i went by and looked at your car at Erics... I did a few checks on it and this is what i have found.... When car is cold it starts as it should, new cap, new rotor, wires are fine. No CARB leakdown at all.. THIS IS A VOLTAGE-SPARK PROBLEM>>>>. After 10 minutes of driving around the block and it is cut off it will not restart hot... Let it cool and the fire is back......

Please note that there is a small(very small) spark going thru spark tester hooked to plug... The Pink wire that should provide a 12 volt when cranking HOTT to TI is not there from starter. (thus new hi-tork starter..) but you were having this problem before starter replaced... Even Jumping 12v to pink wire at starter does nothing to improve voltage going to plugs..... I think that the coil is heat soaking and going south... Any ideas from other members greatly appreciated... I would like to do an MSD conversion on it for Reliability and Performance. Since you already have Headers on it now... Easily hid and looks stock when i get done.. Have done at least 50 different cars and everyone is more that happy with the performance., even with multiple carbs.....

Plus todays Gas sucks..... it also helps with cranking issues that ive found....